It should come out exactly as easily as it went in. If you were able to screw it in with your fingers until the head started to make contact, then with the head no longer in contact, it should come out again just as easily. Using the suggested reverse-twist drill is a great idea, the only real problem I can see is if the head broke off not square, leaving the remainder of the bolt with an angle on it, making it difficult to get the drill started in the centre because it wants to keep sliding off. Did it break off square and if not, is there any thread showing of the threaded aluminium?
As old rider and others have said, it should come out easily as there is no tension on it. To keep the drill square make a sleeve first to act as a guide out of the shank of an M6 bolt. In fact the sheared off head of the bolt could maybe be used to make a guide. If it was mine I'd be taking the fork leg off rather than trying to do it in situ. Using a LH spiral drill bit would probably extract the broken piece with no Eazi out required. Sealey 5 Piece Left Hand Spiral Drill Bit Set
i left the forks in.. made the steel guide with a 3mm hole through center to tap in where the bolt head resides ( i turned a shoulder on the guide so it went in square ) as said there's no tension on the bolt so it comes out easy all you need is a 45 degree drill..the bolt didnt snap off square but was quite soft and easy to drill but you do have to take your time
Had this once with my 998. The bolt was just enough out on the other side so i could put a vise grip on it and took it out on the other side. Henk!!!
Had it on a Honda, Drilled it out. You may be able to drill the head off and turn out the bolt. I would advise NOT to use and "easyout" as they can and do snap and then your are frigged. Worst case is to drill it all out and then bolt and nut it or get a new thread cut
My situation was similar @Old rider I used a centre punch, then a 1mm left hand drill bit to start with, them upto a 3mm but, where upon the snapped part of the fastener spun out. The more central the hole that you punch / drill, the better the chances of it coming straight out.
Assuming you have success with the removal, which if you take the advice given on here I see no reason why you wont. It would be a good idea to investigate why the thing broke in the first place, as you mention that you used ( correctly?) a torque wrench to tighten the bolt. I'm wondering if the tapped hole is the correct depth for the cap headed bolt, If it was too shallow; possibly as a result of an error whilst being drilled, ( these things do happen with automated drilling and tapping processes ) then this could have been the reason for snapping the bolt. I would remove the other bolt and check the depth of the tapped hole for comparison.
As the head has completely come away, it should mean the remaining bit is not under tension, so assuming it is in a clean thread, I would simply and carefully drill a short hole of 3mm diameter in the centre, then knock a 4mm flat end screwdriver into the hole (if it's a spare screwdriver, just taper the sides of the flat end)..........I would avoid using a torx bit because those are just as hard to drill out as a broken easy out. IMO never use a small diameter stud remover like an easy out or a left hand thread tap, because once they break, further drilling options are buggered.
It's a good job there are two bolts anyway! Seriously, what type of torque wrench did you use - low range? good quality? I've been meaning to buy one like that. I only have a large torque wrench of non-premium-brand and therefore although I'm happy to use it for things like wheel nuts, I would not dream of using it on something like a pinch bolt. No doubt some would disagree but I'd usually use a standard L-shape allen key (of high quality) for a job like this, and then just regular arm power and judgement as to what is tight but not exceptionally tight. It doesn't take a huge amount of pressure to nip-up the fork leg so that the spindle cannot turn (and that's tight at its other end anyway).
I personally have 3 torques wrenches. A small one that goes from almost 0Nm to 40Nm A more common longer wrench from 30Nm to 180Nm A heavy duty one from 40Nm to 300Nm (For the rear wheel nut) Also an impact driver. This seems to cover most things.
Nashers first rule of life is: - I will never have enough tools. This obviously includes torque wrenches. I work on Outboard engines, Motorcycles, and Land Rovers, so have ended up with several to cover the whole range. That satisfying "Clunk" really makes you feel like you know what you are doing. Nasher
@Richie T Dont panic...It should be loose so extracting/unscrewing it will be easy. If using an 'easyout' DO NOT put any side pressure on the tool it'll snap like a carrot! Just turn it gently and 'upright'... GL
When you double click, you are putting a slightly higher torque value into the fastener. One click/beep is all you should do them up to.
No, I'm not driving past the point it clicks. It's all about releasing the torque on the fastener and re-checking. Driving past the point at where the wrench clicks with a single click would far more likely to over torque. You could torque a fastener 20 times with the same setting on your tool and it won't continue to tighten past your setting. It's all about how to correctly use the tool. I've seen people not understand how to use them and drive past the correct torque, continuing to over torque the fastener.
That is not correct. Just by double clicking will put extra torque on the fastener. A single click is the correct way to use a torque wrench. Dont take my word for it, look it up
