Been fitting my own tyres for donkeys years now, like everything else it gets easier with practice. Some of my kit shown below :- Take a bit of time and make a tyre changing board ( the bit with carpet on ) you can't see from the pic but it has 2" batons all around the underside so its raised off the floor, then when you drop the disc into the big hole, the wheel sits nicely on the carpet and doesn't get scratched. A set of rim protectors, 8" motion pro tyre levers, I used to ride Enduro's so I've changed tyres / tubes inthe middle of Stang forest with these, you don't need anything bigger. The grease is for the wheel spindle of course, tyre soap for getting the tyre on, put plenty on the "up" ramp of the wheel leading to the tyre well as that's what the tyre struggles to get over when your inflating it. Home made wheel balancer made from old paddock stand and 4 bearings, ( tyre is just stood alongside it for no reason really! ) A few observations, ...excuse me if I'm pointing out the obvious :- Tyres go on / off easier when they are warm, stick the new ones in against your hot water tank for an hour or so. Now you may cringe at this, but no need to.........I use a spade to break the beads,...shove two rim protectors together, a thin cloth over them, place the spade up against them and jump on spade with 14 stone !, they come off in a couple of goes and I've never marked a rim, your not levering against the rim, your just pressing the tyre vertically downwards, look at a pro bead breaker in a tyre place next time your in, its just a mechanised spade blade really. When your trying to get the tyre off the top of the rim, use your knees to keep the bottom of the tyre in the wheel well, that'll give you more room to ease the top off. As I mentioned before, put plenty tyre soap on the "up" ramp of the wheel leading to the tyre well as that's what the tyre struggles to get over when your inflating it. When your blowing the new tyre onto the bead, remove the valve so you get more air in quicker, you need a big volume of air in really quickly for best results, a compressor with a large reservoir is ideal. Some garage forcourt pumps just put the air in "pulse" style, you'd be on forever with one of these. Check the bead is seated and runs concentric with the rim. Check direction of rotation of tyre is correct, I've seen them fitted backwards! and I've also seen fork pinch bolts not tightened up again by so called "professionals" Don't assume the valve is the heaviest point of your bare wheel, check the balance of the wheel with the tyre off, I've had wheels where the heaviest point was about 8" away from the valve. Mark the actual heaviest point and align the dot on the tyre here, the more accurate you are matching these, the less balance weights you will use. Scrub new tyres in and check air pressure after a couple of days. Apart from saving a couple of quid ( not my main reason ) I'd rather do tyres and other things myself, noone else takes as much care of your stuff as you do yourself and your life depends on these baby's, when I pointed it out to the guy who's fork bolts had not been done up, he was livid and rightly so...I just wouldn't trust my life to a spotty 19 year old apprentice! Can’t get rid of that Photobucket sh1te,..sorry? Hope some of this helps, Poucher
Don’t believe so thought it was a breaker and a fitter if you buy also a lever? Ifyou scroll through the rest of the images it shows you more of what you get, bead breaker is just on the first image.
Ahh,..right, my bad, I’ve just watched the video and if you get all that for £70 odd quid it’s a good deal! Only thing it’s missing is a centralising cone to take the main post diameter up from 19mm to whatever bore your axle is, if you watch the video you can see it flexing when he puts the tyre on. Might have a punt at one mesen for £74 quid or whatever it is,...good spot DS
I can brake beads and inflate onto the bead no problems. It's getting the bloody tyre on and off I can't do. I'm thinking I'm not putting it down in the well enough.
It does depend on the wheel well depth and the tyre manufacturer - some have heavier less flexible carcasses and are difficult to get on and off. Dunlop D212 GP Pro and slicks are a nightmare but if you've ever watched a tyre guy at a track doing them you'll realise they're hard work even with pro tyre changing machine. Michelin seem to be easier, Bridgestones a bit hit and miss. Just got to slap more tyre soap on & keep on going.
If you have a look at the board in my post above CR when I drop the disc into the hole I can kneel on the rest of the board, it’s long enough to have the wheel and myself kneeling on it. Not only is it comfy on my old knees, but it allows me to shuffle up the board and the disc moves up to the top of the hole then stops when it touches the edge of the board, I can then exert a bit of pressure on the tyre with my knees to force the tyre into the wheel well and keep it there while I lever it onto the top edge of the wheel. You need loads of tyre soap on it, and on your rim protectors and levers, don’t be too greedy with trying to get too much on at once, work in about 4 or 5 inch lengths and it’ll go on okay. It also helps massively if the tyre is nice and warm, it’s a lot more flexible, I put mine in next to the hot water tank for at least an hour before I fit them, just be patient you’ll get there
So - if i’m hearing this correctly the advice you Gents are giving this young man is: First get it hot. Make sure it’s well lubricated. And get plenty of practice It gets easier over time This all feels very familiar somehow....... My Uncle also told me years ago that I should practice on a used one first to save spoiling a good un.....
I use ALDI (other supermarkets are available) spray window cleaner as a lube, works well on the tyres as well.....Boom tish!
I've just ordered one of them fancy machines from 24mx.co.uk as it looks alright to me. They do charge shipping but no additional taxes to pay and delivery via RM. They sent me a discount code for 3 mates - 10% off your order. If you want one of the two I have left, PM me and I will send you the link. It will cover the additional postage.
I have this kit, cost quite a bit but an investment in being self sufficient, solidly made, will see me out. Works well for my MV before and now the 1260 MT'S.
Yep - bought a compact bead breaker from...err cant remember where now....2 sets of tyre levers, balancing kit that bolts to me paddock stand, weights and a roll of 3m inch wide tape (so i can reuse the weights). Bought an air compressor from aldi (60 quid) works a treat. When i first started - an hour per tyre. Can do it in about 15 mins per tyre now. Good investment. I dont have to rely on the tyre fitters, get them cheaper and get them delivered to my house. Brilliant.
