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V4 How To Correctly Run In???

Discussion in 'Panigale' started by AirborneSi, Oct 5, 2020.

?

How to run in a new superbike

Poll closed Oct 19, 2020.
  1. Stick to the handbook

    40.7%
  2. Beast it!

    59.3%
Multiple votes are allowed.
  1. Ha ha ha, nah not quite. Warm the oil first :laughing::upyeah:
     
  2. That was lucky ,i could of buggered the engine if you had not put me straight on that :p
     
    • Funny Funny x 2
  3. Use a hair dryer :thinkingface::D
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Useful Useful x 1
  4. I’m just on the second phase of running in my V4 916 Anniversario and I’m doing it by the book. I’ll raise the revs gradually after 1500 miles I think. Maybe I’m boring! However, I ran in my 1299 Anniversario exactly as per the book and it burnt pretty much no oil in 7,000 miles of ownership and was the most powerful 1299 my mate ever had on his dyno - and he’s a pro engine tuner. The demo 1299 I originally tried at the dealer (which clearly had been caned from the word go) puffed away like a James Bond smoke screen when started from cold.
    Cars don’t need running in because the engines are a very low state of tune compared to bikes, so can run tolerances that don’t require running in. I can’t see why Ducati would waste time saying run it in if it’s not actually required? Plus they have spent millions designing, building and testing the things??
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
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  5. The bikes are smashed to living hell on a dyno at the factory before they’re shipped. Seen it with my own eyes mate.

    rear cylinder down pipe was glowing orange basically from cold.

    just FYI.
     
  6. Thrash it from the crate!! Once tried running a bike in ‘properly’ Got bored within ~2 minutes.

    Don’t be soft. Thrash the bastard immediately!!! :imp::imp::imp:
     
    • Funny Funny x 3
    • Like Like x 2
  7. Multiple schools of thought here aren't there?

    I've seen engines in Bologna being spun up, but I suspect it's more of a quick compression/power test rather than anything too long, but maybe the Panigale V4 is different?

    My current car needed to be run in, 1000 miles in comfort mode not exceeding 4,500 rpm or 85 mph, as soon as it hit 1000 miles I spun the dial into Sport+ and opened it up, it was nippy before but it certainly livened up post 1000 miles.

    I also recall back in 2004 when I had a new 999R and it had been to JHP with about 100 miles on for a quickshifter and a few other bits, I was talking to John about how it's a drag running bikes in, he just chucked it on the dyno, stuck a power commander on at the same time and it was good to go in an hour or two.

    Likewise my Desmo, ran that in 621 miles, took it to JHP for it's first service and asked John what now, he said given it 20 miles to get the fresh oil all around the motor, up to temp and thrash it, needless to say on the way home it got truly opened up and by god did it pulled after 12K
     
  8. Honed-bore.jpg Plateau.jpg
    glazed.jpg
    polished.jpg

    Above are cross sections of a cylinder bore.

    What you want is the second image. The bore has been 'plateaued' either by the factory or by the rider correctly seating in the piston rings. The oil sits in the troughs to lubricate the piston rings.

    The third and fourth images are bore glazing and bore polishing respectively. Both are caused by excessive light loading of an engine during running in.

    As can be seen there's nowhere for the oil to sit. With a glazed bore a varnished layer covers the troughs and with a polished bore the troughs are worn away.

    Neither is good and both will lead to excessive oil consumption.
     
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