I have a small issue with the instruments on my 2003 1000SSie DS The instruments on it are not like the 750/900SSie at all but are like the 1000 Sport Classic and some Monsters. With link to the ECU for Immobiliser etc - Image below. The top left and Middle warning lights, High Beam and Indicators, are no longer working and are PCB mounted LEDs not bulbs. The actual High Beam and the indicators work fine, just not the warning lights. It's not as simple as a broken wires to the instruments as the indicators are driven by a flasher unit on the PCB, so the issue is internal to the instrument set not external. First question, has anyone seen this before? I've stripped them down as far as I can, but can't remove the PCB to check it without removing the needles from the Speedo and Tacho shafts. Do they just pull off does anyone know? Or does anyone know of a specialist that may be able to fix them for me? I work in the electronics industry, so have a good chance of getting them fixed if I can remove the needles. Thanks Nasher
I remove the needles using some specialist needle pullers but some have used the 2 spoons method to lift them off the shaft (carefully). They are friction fit onto the spindle. The dial motors need cycling by connecting to 12v before refitting the needles.
Thanks, but unfortunately the 2 spoons trick won't work with these, the dials behind are very thin flexible printed film, not anything that can be levered against. I'll look up Mark at Scorpio tomorrow. Thanks Nasher
I'll give Scorpio a call today. But has anyone used these guys - Autotronics in Leicester before? https://www.autotronics.co.uk/repai...uster-repair/ducati-instrument-cluster-repair it's interesting that they've actually got the 1000SSie instruments listed, but it could be that they've just listed everything they could find. Nasher.
Hears hopefully a link to my thread in repairing these clocks. https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/monster-cluster-repair.67752/#post-1285149 The steppers motors have in built stops. Needles removed easily by rotating anti-clockwise against stop while pulling upwards slowly. Was a bit nervous with my own with lots of squeaks but worked a treat. The company in Stirling guided me on the phone and worked a treat. Leds easily fixed.
I use one of these to pry the needle off I have 3 sizes. I don’t use the screw part, just get the correct size cut out under the needle and by rocking it left/right the needle is lifted up the spindle until it releases. Electrically cycling the motors before reassembly ensures the spindles are parked in the correct position for refit.
Thanks Guys. Geoffduk, I'm hoping to get a better look at the PCB/A tomorrow evening, I'm hoping I can spot the fault myself rather than have to take it in to our repairs guys at work. I work in Aviation Electronics, so we have a few people around the factory with not a lot to do at the moment! Nasher.
An update. Firstly, not a lot has happened over the last two weeks as I'm fitting our new kitchen during my annual leave from work, so bike and boat type stuff has taken a back seat whilst I top up my brownie points with Lady Nasher. I did however this evening strip the instrument cluster down again and have a better look. Worryingly somebody has been in there before apart from me, as I noticed this time that two of the clips holding the PCB in are broken, along with one of the clips holding the Speedo stepper motor in place. I tried to get the needles off the gauges, but they just were not coming off, even with a little heat. The black Caps come half way off the clear bit and jam up at an angle, I couldn't get the cap off any further and put a worrying amount of pressure and anticlockwise twist on them with no luck. I'm wondering if whoever went in there before has superglued them back on. However I could pull the PCB away from the plastic housing a few mm and found the problem. I've stolen Geoffduk's image below to demonstrate. The High Beam current limit resistor he's marked has completely detached, and the one on the other side of the centre LED is only attached now by one contact. I'll assume it's for the indicator LED which is the middle top LED. The detached LED for the High beam is not in the housing anywhere that I can see. If I could only get the needles off I could solder the Indicator Resistor back down, get a scope on it to identify it, and get another to solder in place for the High Beam. Nasher.
Using Google I've found a couple of other images of the same Instrument PCB with missing Resistors. Can somebody confirm please that my understanding is that the one on the right is 480Ω, and the one on the left must read 681 and be 680Ω, as 189 (18000MΩ) is obviously ridiculous. Thanks Nasher.
You never know - could have been superglued but I was concerned about the amount of effort to remove but with guidance from the expert instrument repair guy in Stirling continued and off it came intact - at least the speedo needle. The other broke using advice from forums. As I mentioned previously the tachometer needle shaft I repaired with a special acrylic bonding glue that worked a treat and no problems 4K miles later. From another thread the advice on the high beam idiot light not a major fault is incorrect so unless your MOT guy doesn’t know the rules you have nothing to lose. Basically and I think ridiculous they expect you to replace the clocks. This was my dilemma with an additional problem with tachometer but it was pointed out I’d fail my MOT for high beam. The guy in Stirling sells replacement shafts that you bond onto the base of your existing needle. In my case I didn’t need any. Best of luck either way. Anyway here’s the link to his company. Very helpful guy. http://www.akspeedo.com/ And cap repairs http://www.akspeedo.com/peugeot-citroen-speedo-motors.php The best glue to rebond a broken Acrylic shaft must include dichloromethane. It basically softens the two surfaces and Welds them back together. I bought a modelling glue which was ideal. It evaporates very quickly with limited time to rework but once glue it’s very strong and I’ve removed / reinserted the needle several times whilst adjusting the zero position for the broken tachometer needle.
I decided that it would be best if I left this to the experts and sent the cluster off to one of the specialists after talking it through with them on the phone. They've arrived back today, no note, no phone call, packaged really badly, and have not been apart. I called and they said they couldn't get the needles off. Plan C is as follows, but not until the weekend. Both resistors are behind the webs in the plastic moulding between the tubes that fit over the LEDs - see image above. If I cut those webs out carefully I'll possibly have room to solder the new Resistors down, or if not I might be able to to get a couple of small lengths of wire on the pads and mount the Resistors remotely. Wish me luck. Nasher
How much clearance is there between the dial faces and the backs of the needles @Nasher ? Would it be feasible to cut the shafts with a fine Dremel cutting disk, than drill out the remnant of shaft from the back of the needle so you can glue them back when fixed?
Hello mate Unfortunately there isn't any clearance really, but it's a good idea to try if I can't get to the resistors through the side of the plastic moulding. Nasher.
As I mentioned previously just break them off and contact guy in Stirling. That will then allow you to examine acrylic shaft. If required file off and then contact guy In Stirling for new shaft and support that you bond to the underside of needle. If you ask him you could probably pay him to bond new support to needle. Just looked at his website and he lists Ducati Monster needle repairs.
Geoff sorry, didn't see your reply until just now. I really didn't want to break them off, just goes against the grain with me when I knew there was another solution. I pulled the PCB off the moulding clips as far as possible, then used a Dremel to cut out the webs in the plastic moulding that covered the Resistors. Those parts of the moulding do nothing, so it won't be missed. That gave me plenty of room to remove the resistor hanging on by one end and the solder down two new 1206 size resistors. My equipment at home is quite limited, specifically I don't have a backlit magnifier, so I'm not happy at all with the standard of my soldering, but they work. When I'm back to work rather than working from home I'll get the soldering redone to full Class 3 repair standards, which by the look of it will be the best on the board. Pleased I've got this one sorted. Nasher
That’s great. Would have attempted the same if I’d thought about it as really didn’t want to remove the needles but had no option as tachometer knackered. Not an MOT failure but really annoying if not working.
