Success! Cheers for everyones input, the heat treat cycles with the blowtorched work perfectly. Another question, I've used nylock nuts. Does it matter what nut I use?
Nyloc are no good. The nylon inserts will melt. If you want to use a self locking nut use an all metal sort like Aerotite
Those studs get mighty hot, not really the correct application for a nylock, you could order some of the correct nuts from Ducati for a few pounds, or get something with a mechanical locking feature, pinch nuts or the like.
Another way of getting rusted nuts off with tight access (i don;t think that this has been mentioned) is to use a junior hacksaw blade to saw one side of the nut off along the side of the thread. Every time i have done it i have found the stud to be harder and to guide the blade without taking any damage. Once you have removed the slice of nut, hit the visible side of the nut in the anti-clockwise direction. The blow will open the nut as it tries to turn i have found that they drop off easily.
I think it was good of you to post as above, it happens many times on here, sometimes innocently where someone hasn’t had the time to read the whole thread, and sometimes because of other reasons.
I use a stainless dome headed nut on exhaust studs with copperslip as it stops the problem at source. No corrosion of the nut and no exposure of the stud end to the atmosphere. Obviously you have to ensure that the nut is actually doing up properly and not becoming thread bound on the stud, here a stainless spring washer can help
Hello, i got the same (maybe a bit worse) rusting on mine. Am planning on getting ducati studs and replace bolts and studs. Any idea on the torque values for the studs into engine block, and nuts onto studs please? Thanks
The nuts you want are these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310846010481 Mechnically locking, high temp, anti corrosion.
Exhaust pipe flange to hor./vert. head fastener M8x1.25 : 24Nm. Seq. (1) to 6 Nm - (2) to 24Nm - (3) to 24 Nm Intake and exhaust flange stud bolts M8x1.25 : 15Nm, min 13Nm, max 17Nm. LOCK 2 or THREEBOND 1324
I am using these - cheap and traditional https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-Brass...228436&hash=item3ae5182024:g:8ssAAOSwl2haC~r2
Had a similar rusted nut problem on my S2R1000. The nut size and the stud size appear on two different Ducati diagrams (the latter on the camshaft diagram!) and the horizontal cylinder head studs are longer than the vertical. Anyhow, after trying to compare alternatives on google I called Riders of Bridgewater and source two new Ducati studs and nuts for the grand total of £7, including postage. Worth if for piece of mind and no fitting issues.
btw - just did my last Multi with same engine as O.P.'s - stud length of 45mm is the shortest i would go - 50 would work also if you aren't fussy. I used lovely capped brass* nuts this time. *have always used brass out of choice, ditto on a car, for nearly 50 years.
I was going to say exactly the same but Chris beat me to it... I've used stainless studs & brass nuts but with the addition of a stainless spring washer under each.
Fortunately I caught the exhaust nuts on mine before they were rusted up and seized. I have replaced them with brass K-Nuts.
They look just like the nuts on my lads MX 125, I’ve wondered what material they were as after 20 years of grime they aren’t brass coloured but they easily come loose. Thanks for the link.
They come in various types; brass, copper, silver plated, zinc plated, aerospace locknuts and some with attached serrated washers.
