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Lithium Battery On Older Bike

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by cookster, Sep 18, 2018.

  1. I fully agree, perhaps a large RED warning light for over temperature on the heat sink.
    And active crowbar/fuse protection for over current / over voltage if it goes wrong.

    Typically recent bikes have a Three Phase generator coil/stator makes alternating current voltage varies with engine speed, that is then rectified to direct current (with a ripple).
    The regulator then smooths and provides a nice clean DC at the required current for the bikes needs (including battery charging, when required).
    Any excess electricity is normally shunted away as heat..... hence the need for a balanced approach.
     
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  2. The difficulty is reading through the marketing bullshit to get to the real circuitry.
    The marketing people talk absolute bollocks..... compared to the design engineer...
     
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  3. Another true/ not true?
    Some of the lithium batteries when stood a bit, benefit from say a headlight being turned on for 10 seconds or so. To in effect ‘wake em up’, before starting the bike.
     
  4. Yep.... it's a thing that makes them not idea as 100% standby power sources.....
    Years ago I did a low power radio transmitter that woke up every 40 seconds (just a few mS) just to run a few lines of code. Later we took it out to save power..... then had to put it back as the Lithium batteries could go to sleep.... some sort of barrier forming within the cell, killed really fast by a bit of heat / current. Can't remember the exact physics/chemistry of what was happening.

    On a bike press the horn or brake lights
     
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  5. Usually get those at the clinic o_O
     
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  6. Sooooo.....which battery did you go for for the 1098r? (Sorry nicking more of your research as I may need a new one for mine too! :))
     
  7. Yuasa: Whatever was standard - I will have to check tonight, I got a new one with the Bayliss I bought from Pro Twins and as that one is laid up I'm using that battery...
     
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  8. Standard was Yuasa YT12B-BS.
    Currently got a Yuasa YTX14-BS in mine, fitted 3 years ago by the previous owner, but I believe it may be dying.

    Was considering a lithium battery so was glad this thread came up, but I think I'll be going for the lower risk option of non-lithium, and just keep it on a trickle charge.
     
    #48 Sonic, Sep 19, 2018
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2018
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  9. Been there... Once upon a time a long, long time ago...

    Great days! Massive penicillin slug in the backside, oh how we laughed!
     
  10. No it wasn't - it was a YT14 standard on the R's (couldn't remember the full number) and later 1198S's too I think... many YT12's are listed as correct fitment but they are the wrong standard fitment.
     
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  11. Hhmm just checked my 2008 manual and it bring up the YT12 under the part number.

    But you're right, 2009 onwards, and the Bayliss models had YTX14 as standard.

    Either way I'll be going for the later YTX14
     
  12. This is the list with upgraded ampage as factory fitment: but you will find many dealers state the YT12 as the correct one for all 848/1098/1198 bikes...
    Cross-reference Part Number: 39520141A
    Part Number Bike Model Part Description Diagram
    395.2.014.1A 2007 Ducati 1098s Tricolore Battery Battery support
    395.2.014.1A 2009 Ducati 1098r Battery Battery support
    395.2.014.1A 2009 Ducati 1098r Bayliss Battery Battery support
    395.2.014.1A 2010 Ducati 1198r Corse Battery Battery support
    395.2.014.1A 2010 Ducati 1198s Corse Battery Battery support

    (don't listen to Lozzeraptor - he's in a mood with me :bucktooth:)
     
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  13. And what about using the Shindengen SH847 regulator? This is a series regulator that controls the output voltage by limiting the current from the alternator, thereby reducing the heat dissipated in the regulator and in the stator through magnetic losses. So much less heat and a better life for the stator.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. No Derek. Could you explain the thinking behind this "through magnetic losses".
    The trouble is the Stator has already made (collected) the energy, and as you can see the only thing this control circuit is doing is "shunting" or conducting to dissipate the energy as heat.... if it doesn't the stator gets really really hot..... If the black box (yellow in this instance) isn't shunting the stator will get very hot.

    For those doubters among you, try removing just one wire from the Stator.......
    You'll find toasty bits in your oil as the insulation burns off the coils.

    Perhaps they think, oh well it's in a bath of oil, what's the worst that could happen.

     
  15. @bradders its going on the gsxr mate, turning it into a track only bike

    whats an agm battery??
     
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  16. Cool! Sounds like a nice winter project.

    You have a quick shifter?
     
  17. @Cream_Revenge yeah mate have a translogic one, got track fairings on order, yeah be a nice project mate.
     
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  18. Nice. Keeping all the road stuff?
     
  19. If I typed it, probably phone fat fingers!!

    I have a battery if you want to try it. No idea if its any good...if you have means of charging you're welcome to.
     
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  20. yeah prob put it in the loft, but its not worth much, going to paint it in my company colours.
    @Cream_Revenge
     
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