You are correct,the values will differ BUT the final torque figure is given as a plus or minus 1 NM so should compensate,
It will provide the correct torque if the spanner is at 90 degrees to the torque wrench. However If used in a straight line, as per the pic, you would need to calculate the correct torque setting based on the extra leverage - and it would be significantly less due to to the longer lever...
It's a good job I posted the pics. I did indeed use the wrench as in the pic so I need to retorque with the spanner sideways.. as father ted said.. well spotted lads. I'm in Manchester for a days so I can't get to it but I will be as soon as I return
Back from visiting two of my kids in Manchester and had to get up to the garage to check out the torque spanner thingy. So I initially torqued it with the spanner in a straight line, so i went up today and turned it to 90 degrees but it didn't actually make a difference the wrench broke immediately. I have the wrench set to 38NM as I did when I initially torqued it up. Here's a few pics. Does all look ok to you guys? Am I doing this correct.
Looks good to me,same values at all nuts torqued down in sequence will give you the even seal that you need!
It broke because the bolts will be tightened to more than 38nm due to the longer leverage of using it straight where a setting of 38nm will actually be higher than 38. If you want 38nm, properly then you would need to loosen and re-tighten to 38nm with the spanner at 90 degrees. That said if it's a bit higher it probably won't cause any bother as long as they are equal, although too high might cause them to get too over-tight as the cylinder/head expands with heat (the alloy will expand greater than the stud), putting greater strain on the studs?...
To calculate the actual torque you applied see; Torque Wrench Extension Calculator Basically; M1 = M2 x L1 / L2 Where: M1 is the torque setting of the wrench. M2 is the actual torque applied to the nut L1 is the normal length of the wrench L2 is the extended length of the wrench. Edited to add; the phone app is very good as it calculates it without any head scratching, as an example if your torque wrench is 300mm long and you have a 100mm extension then to achieve 38nm at the bolt you need to set to 32.5nm.
For the time it takes at this stage I'd loosen them off and start again to get the correct setting. As Dukedesmo says, you won't have done any damage at the moment, the issue isn't when it's cold, but the torque setting difference will be proportionately higher when the engine warms up, and you run the risk of snapping a stud or stripping a thread in the cases. Nasher
Thank you fellas for taking the time to help its very much appreciated. So I've decided to loosen the head nuts and re-torque them with the spanner at 90 degrees.
It's been a while since I last posted. Since then I've got the engine painted and back into the bike she's all rebuilt ready for oil and firing up. So which oil should I use and is there certain procedure I should follow.Any advice is always very much appreciated fellas..
Back on the road and running like a dream. I've made a sidestand enlarger from believe it or not a plastic bullet!!
