1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Making The Old Girl Beautiful And Sleek Again.

Discussion in 'Builds & Projects' started by West Cork Paul, Jul 31, 2018.

  1. I know, I know, that should have said 'definitely'. To be sure, to be sure, to be sure. But, I need a little ride around the block first, very gently. I've not ridden her for 7 years and now she's running again I'm getting impatient.

    Re the bath, I couldn't bring myself to inflict that on my wife so the bit that would fit in the kitchen sink, like the air box, did and it certainly makes it easier to scrape off. I'm loath to put the fuel tank in there though.
     
  2. Book her a spa day as a suprise, just cuz you love her and all that. Then get it all in the bath and pretend it never happened!
     
    • Like Like x 2
    • Funny Funny x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  3. I'm going to attack the tank when I next get chance and I was thinking of doing just that. Lay a tea-towel on the paint splurge then pour boiling water on it. I'll let you know if it works.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. Any recommendations please, anyone, for Dzus fasteners. I know I can get them off ebay but I don't want to end up with some rubbishy chinese ones.
     
  5. interesting project and tips here
     
  6. It was only on the throttle bodies internals to free the butterfly valves so they'd snap shut again. All good now. Thanks
     
  7. On re-reading this @Xfin999 did you mean book the wife a spa day or the 748? :)
     
    • Funny Funny x 1
  8. FUEL TANK.
    Some good news. (Sorry, no pics coz I can't get the iPhone inside the tank and everything taken from outside looking in is impossible to see in a photo.) Bearing in mind the bike's not been used for 7+ years and the fuel has probably been in there since the last time I filled up. I did expect this to be one rusty gungey mess in there. But no. There was about a litre of fuel left in there (probably most had evaporated over the years) but no rust. Probably the most corrosion free thing on her!. It was all shiny and like new in there, including the fuel pump assembly bits & pieces. Anyway, I thought I'd better drain out the old fuel but am buggered if I can get the drain plug undone without messing up the head. At some point in the future I'll try the suggestions made in an earlier thread re non-metric allen keys, torx keys and a large hammer, but for now I figured there's so little old fuel I'll just add some new fuel to it.
     
  9. STARTING HER UP FOR THE 1ST TIME.
    So, new fuel (mixed with the old). A new battery (the old one was dated April 2004!). A de-seized and fully operational clutch. Cleaned up, de-seized and now fully operational throttle bodies. Oil applied through the spark plug holes and to the rockers. Engine put into gear, rear wheel turned a few times to turn over the engine. Time for the moment of truth. No need to check the spark plugs and coils etc just yet, let's see what happens.

    Connect the battery. The alarm/immobiliser goes ballistic!. Where did I put the f****ng remote control for it! Battery disconnected. Find alarm fob. Fit new battery in alarm fob. Re-connect battery. Dis-arm alarm (at least that worked and it hadn't forgotten its code!). Turn on the ignition. I can hear the fuel pump whir and prime the fuel lines. Press the start button. Well, the starter works and she spins over :) A few turns and I release the button. Try again. On the second attempt there's a crackle and 'whoomph' from the exhausts. On the 3rd press of the button she fires up :) :) :)

    But then I notice there's petrol pi**ing out the underneath of the tank onto the vertical cylinder head and running down over the exhaust manifold. Not good. Kill the engine. It took me 5 minutes to trace it to the o-ring in the QR fitting of the fuel feed line. For some reason it has a flat spot on one side. (The nick in the rubber was me extracting it with a small screwdriver). Well it is 19 years old. So, no more running today.
    IMG_9141.jpg

    A quick trip to the local farm co-op and get some o-rings of the same size (not Viton). Replace both feed and return o-rings and reconnect. I know they won't last but I've some Viton ones on order which will be fitted as soon as they get here.

    Start her up again and she starts first time on the button. Leave her to idle for a while until the engine warms up and then, coz she's on a rear stand, go up and down through the gears 1-6, no more than 3000 rpm. Clutch works, rear brake works, all gears are fine.

    New timing belts are about to be ordered and I guess I'll have to buy a tension measurer thingy as well.

    Next step, replace the engine oil, brake and clutch fluids. Whilst still carefully removing the white emulsion paint.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  10. Racebolt make lovely stainless ones, probably titanium if you want.
    They look great and even feel good in use.
    Recommended
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  11. Download Gates CarbonDrive app to your smartphone
    It’s actually designed to pick up the non-musical frequency of a plucked drive belt, so IME works much better than guitar tuning apps for our needs.
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  12. @Old rider Thanks for the tip much cheaper than a gauge. What frequency should I aim for please? Also, where do you measure the vibration? Between the two camshaft gears at the top? Thanks
     
  13. On the longest run.
    Get your belts from @Exige on here and he’ll give you a forum discount.
    He’ll also point you at a video to demonstrate how it’s done.
    Frequency is 99 Hz
    Make sure you turn the adjuster the correct way!
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  14. NO MORE EMULSION.
    After buying a new tin of Elbow Grease and applying @Martin D 's suggestion of the hot towel bath the emulsion has now all gone. We're getting there.
    IMG_9067.jpg IMG_9070.jpg IMG_9144.jpg IMG_9148.jpg IMG_9149.jpg

    IMG_9147.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 2
  15. Not for the forum discounted ExactFit belts supplied by @Exige
    They are 99Hz because they stretch less then Gates belts and then settle to a similar tension of circa 90Hz.
     
    • Useful Useful x 1
  16. I was planning on getting a new chain at some stage (probably over the winter) because the existing one is a tad rusty on its surfaces. However, the rust is only on the surface and the chain runs freely with no seized links especially once it had been fully lubricated again. But...... can o-rings deteriorate over time? It might have only done 2500 miles but it's the original chain so 19 years old.

    As for the sprockets, my plan was to get the wire brush on them to remove the surface rust as there's next to no wear on them. However, thanks very much for the tip about not reusing the old ones, duly noted.
     
  17. I'm of that mindset as well.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  18. Just going through this thread...brilliant - love stuff like this...that nose cone is definately repairable....the lug on the side panels on my hyper is the classic for snapping off - my mate bought one of these kits...

    I shit you not this is the best body repair system ive ever used...3 of these held the lug in place rock solid (i think we used 6 in the end) - in fact after the second one went in both of us started laughing at each other as we couldnt believe it worked...and the nose cone i would say from the pic is twice as thick so you should get better results...
     
    • Useful Useful x 2
Do Not Sell My Personal Information