Hi all, I've had electronic issues with the bike since I first purchased (rain damage in the dash) Thought I'd do some investigation and I'm glad I have, its in really bad shape. Ive found a cable that was just twisted together behind the head lamp. Also a cable that looks likes it runs from the ignition barrel, that's has become completely corroded and has popped out of the connector. I'm currently trying to see if I can get any life out of her, but even after I've cleaned the cable in question and press it inside the connector (not ideal I know) I don't get any life from when I put the ignition on. Nothing is being drawn from the battery (got a volt meter on) Just a question to help me diagnose, would the immobilizer cut off all power? I need to disable the immobilizer anyway, want to replace the broken dash, but want to get the bike running first so im curious if that's why I get no life when I turn the key Also the lovely guys over reddit have directed me to the workshop manual, but has anyone got a colour wire diagram for the bike?
That looks like a red/yellow wire to me and it's the input to the ignition switch from the battery via the 30A fuse in the fuse box. Check the 30A fuse and check for continuity between the end of the red/yellow wire and the battery positive. The immobiliser won't prevent the bike from powering up but it will stop it from starting.
@Derek Thank you so much! Major helpful! Will print that now. Fuses seemed okay, but I changed the 30A yesterday just to be sure. I'll check the continuity now - I'm hopefully its that cable now (like is from all my visual inspection) Would you recommend me just putting a simple connector on that one and taking the other side out with a single connector, or remove them all, clean them up and reconnect with a new block?
You should be able to remove the terminal from the connector block. They have a tang on one side that locks them in. You should be able to flatten the tang back with a jeweller's screwdriver or similar inserted from the front side of the connector. You can buy replacement terminals but for all the price you'd be better to replace the whole connector. You will only need to change the female side. Leave the other half attached to the ignition switch unless it shows signs of damage.
Getting power to the red/yellow - The fuse I put in yesterday had blown, put a new one in. My dodgy push in the connector plan probably isn't a solid idea! Will try and pick up one of those connectors, thank you so much. Could I pick your brains? I just popped to electronic store (ones open on my door step) I only had 14gauge wire on hand, but the wires on the main harness by the headlamp are much thinner. The guy in the shop said I need to know what types of wires they are to match, to me they're just thin stranded copper wire that's smaller than 14gauge, but he said I need to know what type of amps run through them etc to replace. Ofc I want to do this safe as possible, what is the best way to find out what exact wire replacement I need?
Your avatar implies that you are in the UK but from your reference to 14 gauge wire I wonder if you are in the US? The guy is correct that you need to match the wire size to the electrical load. Most of the wire on the bike carries relatively small currents and will be 0.5mm sq, capable of currents up to 11A but those that take higher currents will be correspondingly thicker; 1mm sq for up to 16A or 2mm sq for up to 25A. FYI: 24 gauge = 0.5mm sq 18 gauge = 1mm sq 14 gauge = 2mm sq.
Again Derek you are a fountain of knowledge! I'm UK, Yeah I measured the amps and took caliper gauge to wires, I only need 14guage/2mm and 18guage/1mm. Made a shopping list now of what I need (shop not open till Tuesday now, bank holiday) But diagnosing my issue. I get volts to the cable in question without ignition turned (one that's come loose from connector block) when I connect it to correct cable (i removed it from block) I get volt, untill I turn the key on, then there's no voltage. I've checked fuses and they're okay. I'm still a bit lost as to whats causing no power to the bike with ignition on
So still trying to diagnose the issue. I get 8v to the red/orange cable, when I turn the key I don't get any volts down the green/black wire to the red/white wire. I did a continuity test on the red/green black wires and i get a beep when I turn the key. Would the kill switch be playing a part? What cables can I bypass to try and get some life?
You've got a high resistance between the battery and the red/yellow wire that's why you are only seeing 8V. When you turn the key to ON the various loads are pulling the voltage down to zero because the current is limited by the high resistance. With the battery disconnected, try measuring resistance between the battery and the end of the red/yellow wire. It should be very low practically 0Ω. If it isn't measure the red/yellow wire from the fuse box to the ign switch and from the battery to the red wire at the 30A fuse. Also measure across the red/yellow and the red at both sides of the 30A fuse. All of these should be as near as damn it zero.
Found the issue(s) - Warning contains graphic material! My word what a mess! I couldn't get any continuity between batter and red/yellow, or from master fuse to red/yellow. I started by looking behind the fuse box and I found some burnt wires red/yellow wires. So I trip it back and patch it up with some new solder and heat shrink. Still I dont get the volts to the ignition, so I start stripping back the wiring harness sleeve on the right side of bike. I find loads of wires soldered together and electric wrapped, which must be from factory, but still odd. Theres also alot of water in the sleeve, everything was soaking. As I follow it around the front and behind headlamp to the left side, I decide I may as-well take all the sleeve off to drain water. That's when I found it! The 12v power to ignition/relay had corroded too. This sleeve was absolutely full of water and gunk. There's a few wires in there I'll replace as they've been exposed to water too long too. I hit it with my special wire twist and cable tie temp fix (I need to get me a 3 way cable crimp thing) All power restored! Bike didn't start, but I'm happier tinkering with mechanics and diagnosing. Some fresh fuel would likely help. Thank you Derek for all your help, greatly appreciated, my electrical knowledge is very limited. Though after seeing all the issues with this old wires and I've pretty much freed the entire wire harness, I may just buy a new fuse block and start rewiring myself. I'm not impressed with the design where the wire harness goes around the headstock, I'd like to put it through the mainframe under the ignition barrel. The bikes got plenty more work to be done, timing belts, valve clearances, oil leak, disable immobilizer to replace dash etc
Good too hear that you've got too the root of the problem. It looks looks that bike has been more than a little neglected in its past. At least now you can get on with the rest of bike. Good luck.
have you replace a dashboard? habe you ever start engine without dash? have you reprogram ECU an what have you done to replace dash?
Depending on age of bike, it won't start without the right dash board, the dash, the ECU and the key all talk to each other, at least that's what happened on our M800, we lost the original dash ( crash damaged) and so fitted a race ECU to get the bike to start and run. At least that is my understanding, but I'm no expert
M620 dark ie 2004. is my bike. thanks for the replay, so U broke the dash, moved broken dash from bike, then reflash ECU with new program, and then you were able to start the engine without dash on it but with same key as you use to? Do you have any dash now? which one? is it all working on it?
Yep, that's what we , or a friend did, used a dash from a m1000, can't remember which key but it didn't matter as it was a Race ECU ( not a flashed OEM one), guess it would have started without a dash but can't be certain
yes, that is crucial, that things that I can start the engine without the broken original dash that has been removed after immo has been removed in the original ECU (option is turned off). Then a way to install aftermarket replacement is wide open. That keeps asking me technicians from Daytona company, and others who make aftermarket gauges. The original dash is very fragile, it is not done to last decades, and OEM replacement is insanely expensive. The conclusion is that best is to by some mid-range replacement (not more than 200€) and have it replaced....but the question is open - if I turn off immo in the original ECU would be engine start without the original dash, without any dash on it. there are some descriptions of the process in other DUC forums, but I would like to check twice in meantime...IMMO is practically useless in monster bikes older than 14 years, a source of trouble, and nothing more..
