It's the only other thing I've changed recently. Plugs are new. Just ruling things out. Which is why I think I will try a gravity fed system, prove the carbs are good then work backwards. The only good thing was testing the Monsters new headlight, that looks a vast improvement.
Don't think a TPS would do anything if you've got the standard ignition/igniters? I have an Ignitech ignition on mine and fitting a TPS to one of the FCRs made a huge improvement to runability as you can add the TPS as another variable in the timing map. As for water/muck in the carbs, not had it with the Monster but did have a bogging at high RPM on the Guzzi that turned out to be just that - a small amount of water/crud in the bottom of the float bowl that would try to go up the jet at around 4-5k rpm. Bike would splutter and cough until revs lowered, a good clean fully sorted it though...
Sounds like voltage loss due to Ducati's marginal wiring. HID lights have a habit of cutting out/not lighting/staying lit etc. if the ballast is powered directly from the lightswitch - i.e. plug and play. Best way is to use the switch to activate a relay and the relay to switch the light directly (but through a fuse) from the battery, using heavier gauge cabling. Personally I run a separate negative directly from the battery too and this avoids all problems.
My little 2 stroke Yam was similar - does your bike keep the caps on the plugs, if so are the new ones tight. This was my issue - check spark, yes, plugs in: fire and die. Tighten the caps and she was away. Not had any faulty coils yet but let me know how you go
I agree w I agree - my guess is the fecking vacuum pump - because of the height of the tank versus float chambers it only just needs a pump. so it runs when the pump only just works - mine ran best on a full tank without it! Still sounds like fuel unless its a low tension electrical problem.- coz imho you are not working the engine hard enough for coil breakdown. Have you got damp on the outside of the coils allowing tracking or is the battery weak (or the terminals loose) so that the generator pulse is fecking up the low tension voltage to the cois?.
Well finally sorted the issues, as it seemed to be a collection of problems. 1. Water in the tank and possibly throughout the system. 2. The brand new Fuel Petcock Valve (Item No.4 in the diagram). After chasing my arse for a week or two I decided to remove the brand new Petcock valve and go straight from the fuel filter to the vacuum pump (I have fitted a fuel tap in between). Bike runs a treat!! The only minor issue is the bike back fires on initial start up, guessing thats unburnt fuel? I also changed the NGK leads to the Exactfit coils with a set of Magnecor leads I already had, coupled upto a set of Brisk plugs. Noticed the bike has a set of B1132 CDi Modules? Not seen these before only the BB1105's not sure if they make any difference? Set of 150 mainjets also to be fitted as the FCR's are running a bit rich. Thanks for all the help Pablo
BB1132 unit has more ignition advance than std BB1105 but I can't find exact details/graph, hope someone else can. It's often a "wood for the trees" moment when your own bike won't run.
