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Mts 1000ds Electrical

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Kjelly, Jan 21, 2020.

  1. How about that. That's why I struggle so much with this electrics. I'm used to work on older jap bikes. None of them need the sidestand connected in order to make the injection works
     
  2. It's a safety feature so that you can't ride off with the sidestand down. Just about all modern bikes have similar safeguards.
     
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  3. But on all the bikes I worked that safety was cutting the ignition of.
     
  4. It cuts off the ignition and the injection because both systems are fed from the same relay.
     
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  5. Impressed! Electricas are the work of the devil :scream:
     
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  6. I will let you guys know tonight hahaha
     
  7. OK so I measured the above.

    12 volt on the terminal with the positive lead from battery. Other terminal 0 volt (the one going to the starter)
    12 volts on the red/black cable.
    On the blue/black..... 3 volts. When I, for example, disconnect the side stand the voltage goes to 8ish volts... No drop when I hit the starter button. Last time I measured it did just that. Red/black stays 12volts when pressing the button..

    Any insight would be very helpful right about now hahaha
     
  8. think of electrics as pluming.
    from what I can make out, you have an ignition live, 12V going via one of the small wires going into the starter solenoid. check (with the wires connected to the solenoid) with a test light, preferably one with a volt meter. one of the two wires should remain at battery voltage while pressing the starter button. if that 12v drops, you have a restriction further up the line (bad connection).
    until you earth that unit out by pressing the starter button, (its the engine ECU that's providing the earth) you will see 12v on the other small wire if you are using a volt meter. but its 12v going through a consumer and looking for an earth. not the same.
    if you use a test light, that 12v looking for an earth will disappear to 0v.
    now, connect your test light on to the positive side of the battery, and the other to the other small wire on the starter solenoid. you should get 0v until you press the starter button. then it will go to battery voltage. if it doesn't, you have a restriction further up the line, (a bad connection) or the ECU isn't providing an earth or being instructed to give an earth (starter switch or wiring from switch to ECU.)
    and that is assuming your inhibitor switches are working correctly. side stand, neutral switch clutch switch.
     
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  9. You mean a test light with 2 pins that shows the voltage in leds right? I can get one at work to measure some stuff out. But since I only have 3 volt instead of 12volt on the blue/black wire it does seem that I have a bad connection somewhere? Or a bad ground? Volts are arriving, just not enough
     
  10. I will need to go back to the wiring diagram to know the ignition feed and earth wiring colors. just heading out the door, when I get 5mins I will take another look. but it does sound like a bad connection. (high resistance).
     
  11. Thanks for the help. If you read back you see someone mentioning the colors and what I had to measure. I did that yesterday evening
     
  12. if i am reading it right, it seams to be saying red and blue (RB) and blue and black (R/BK)
    its hard to tell from the drawing which is which. ignition feed and earth provided by the engine ECU.
     
  13. The starter button is prone to corrosion and intermittent issues .. worth checking if it was working yesterday
    If you run into bad wiring or switches , I have a complete loom and switches available bar the sidestand switch .. no lights I’m afraid
     
  14. Red/Blue heads towards the ignition switch.
     
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  15. That's correct. The red/blue is ignition switched 12V so should read 12V all the time the ignition is on. The Blue/Black is grounded by the ECU to energise the solenoid.
     
  16. Don't complicate things by disconnecting the side stand switch. Test one state at a time.
     
  17. that will be the ignition live then. and it should remain at 12v+ or battery voltage during crancking. if it drops away you have a bad connection between there and the switch/fuse curcuit.
    remember to check for voltage with consumers connected.
     
  18. Agreed, using a test lamp like this should establish whether the ECU is providing a ground or not. Connect the test lamp to the battery positive and it's probe to the blue/black wire. With the ignition on the lamp should light up when you press the starter button. If not then the ECU is not providing a ground and it is time to look at issues that can affect that.
     
    #38 Derek, Jan 22, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2020
  19. A very good point. It doesn't matter if everything else is in order if the ECU doesn't get a signal from the start button.

    I posted this starter logic diagram in another thread a few days ago. It shows the conditions under which the starter will operate or not.
    Screen Shot 2020-01-12 at 12.17.38.png
     
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  20. I will try that.
    Is it just a lamp with 2 wires?
    Concerning the fact that I disconnected the side stand, it did affect the voltage to the starter solenoid..
     
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