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Mts 1000ds Electrical

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Kjelly, Jan 21, 2020.

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  1. is your ECU earthed? - just a thought.
     
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  2. It is grounded. As is the big one from the battery
     
  3. Yes, just a lamp with 2 wires. I'd just suggest a 21W indicator bulb.
    With regard to the side stand switch. When the ECU isn't earthing the solenoid it's output is "floating" so a digital meter can see a voltage but if any load is applied it will drop to zero. That floating voltage may change if the ECU is affected by external functions, like the side stand switch. I think you can ignore that for the time being.
     
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  4. i demostrate bad connection issues to the lads using an airline. or a water hose with an on off spray nozel at the end.
    imagine a hose connected to the tap and turned on, but the nozel off. the whole hose is now pressurised (voltage). stand on the hose and consider that as your loom connection. the hose is still pressurised both sides to the same pressure. open the nozel (switch on the consumer) in this case the starter solinoid, the pressure (voltage) drops away. bad conection/restriction.
     
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  5. A good analogy finm. In reality while no current is being drawn (the tap at the end is turned off) the voltage throughout the circuit is the same as the applied potential (pressure) but when a current is drawn the resistance (restriction) causes the voltage to drop beyond the resistance (same as happens to the pipe pressure).
    My reason for preferring a bulb is that a digital device (meter or test lamp) draws next to no current so there is little or no volt drop. If you use a bulb it glows brightly when it gets full voltage and dimly if there is a resistance which very easily seen.
     
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  6. I will remeasure with a 21w bulb but I fear that things will get to complicated for me going forward. Didn't expect all these difficulties concerning the electrics. The ecu is grounded.. How can there be a problem. Faulty ecu?
     
  7. almost deffo probably not:upyeah:
     
  8. The ECU could be faulty but it would be best to establish whether the solenoid is faulty or not first.
     
  9. If I connect the 2 terminals the bike cranks. So I thought that then the solenoid isn't faulty? So I Wil remeasure al the above with a bulb?
     
  10. nah, thats effectivly bypassing the soliniode
     
  11. OK the solenoid is OK. So let's look at the ECU.

    Is the bike in neutral?
    Is the neutral light on?
    The stand switch appears to do something but to be sure you can bridge the 2 wires of the connector with a bent paper clip or similar. This will take the stand switch out of the loop.
    If the ECU thinks the bike is in gear it won't allow the starter but pulling in the clutch lever should allow the starter to operate .

    Checking the operation of the starter button could be a bit tricky, probably easiest access is at the handlebar switch connecter. The white/blue wire of the connector should go to ground on pushing the button. The black wire should be permanent ground.
    The only other points to pick up the white/blue wire is at the multiway connector (very difficult) or at the ECU which would be best but access is a bit difficult as you have to take the connector apart to get at the back of it.
     
  12. is it possible kjelly means connecting the two heavy wires on the solinoid?
     
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  13. Ah! Quite possibly.
     
  14. I meant the 2 high Amp connections yes. Battery plus and starter motor connection.

    The connector for the sidestand exists of 3 wires.
    No neutral light. I did connect it. It certainly does it thing because if I connect the neutral sensor with the oil light cable, the oil light lights up when in neutral, goes out if I put the bike in gear. I know this because I switched the cables at first haha
     
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  15. All you did with was bypass the solenoid. Just proves the starter works. You still have to confirm that the solenoid is ok.
    Try disconnecting its connector and measuring the resistance across the 2 pins of the solenoid.
    The sidestand switch has 3 wires but the connector to the loom only has 2 wires, one terminal is unused, red/white an black/grey. Find a way to bridge them.
    It does seem that the neutral switch is working.
     
  16. The 2 big pins or the ones inside the connector?
    Neutral switch seems to work but no light in dash.
    Sidestand I connect with a 3pin to a 3 pin... If I use the 2 pin to connect with the sidestand I got nothing from injection noise etc...
    Strange things. I will look tonight.
     
  17. I will try to measure the blue/black wire from the starter button, at the ecu and the multipin connector. Hopefully somewhere I have more than 3 volts
     
  18. The 2 pins in the solenoid side of the connector.
     
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