My concern over a used motor would be not knowing if you are going to have issues with those. They could have been crashed and all sorts. Might be worth listing the parts on the bike you can strip and sell and looking at eBay for a guide to what you can get.
Just had another chat with Ducati Pro Team. They say that was definitely a crank shaft problem at high energy (I was on the motorway)which would have damaged all the other moving parts listed. They also said that they have heard of problems with cranks on 2010-2012 models. So I don't even think that i really want to stick another used like-for-like motor in it, just in case i have the same issue again. Seems that my option is to either break the bike and sell it for parts....or see if the 2014 and onwards cranks / other parts are compatible.
The parts are not, but the engine is (with a little "adjustment"). The crank, bearings etc. are all different from the 2010-12 models. If you can find a 2010-2012 engine, get it in, test it and sell it. If you can get a later engine in, keep it.
Good options. I'd love to get a later engine in, (and i have seen this ) but it's finding someone to do the work. Ducati Pro Team say that wouldn't take on a retro fit job...
They probably think it's a bigger job than it is (according to that link I sent anyway) and wouldn't want to guarantee any work done of an experimental nature. You've already got the engine removed from your bike, you could always fit your own. From what I read, boring out the holes for the plugs is the hardest part.
I'm at the very very steep end of the learning curve in terms of doing the work myself, so little chance. Also read from the link you sent that it's a 3 man job to actually get it in once mods completed.
Have you phoned Rich at Louigi (he should be there - i was down there this morning taking one of the z1000 forum members to get his mapped) Chris the mechanic definately knows his stuff as about 6 months back he was upgrading and rebuilding a multi and blueprinting the engine...he was also adding in some streetfighter parts into the motor also, hell of a job, so, id say phone and ask - if anyone can retro fit an engine (or give advice id say it would be him!)
How about trying Mike, near Bluewater. He is a good engineer and doesn't mind tackling the odd challenge. http://www.bbsmotorcycles.co.uk/
I've found a 2016 engine at a good price and am would be tempted to take a punt if I knew that it would fit as easily as the fella on that forum (you linked to) has said. It really doesn't sound too complicated, and i've found a few garages that would take it on, but they have all queried the electrical side of it, like ecu mapping etc.... Haven't been able o post on that site although I've registered ....
different dash, ECU and everything. Just not worth the hassle. Plugs will all be different. You'd have to change the wiring loom, ECU and Dash. Basically keeping your rolling chassis.
So, my engine options are 2010-2012 will fit like-for-like and 2013-2015 (twin spark) with some moderate adjustments?
Feel for you Tonic. After posting recently that I would keep my 2010 until it packs up, thinking it wasn't worth much, after a decent trade-in offer today, I am seriously considering off loading it after reading this thread? Yours is the worst case scenario for me, where the cost to repair matches the value. Hope you can recoup a good chunk of your losses?
I know a fella who fitted a TS engine to a 2010 with shot big ends. The twin spark will fit straight in. Use all the ancillaries from the 2010 engine and leave extra plugs in situ but unconnected.
when expensive precision items like crankshafts are mass produced the journals for the bigends are ground within a size tolerance not to an exact size, we are talking about microns here. If you tried to make all the cranks exactly the same size it would add time/cost to the production of the part. The manufacturer then measures the cranks journals and grades them according to size ie big ones and little ones and marks each crank to show the bearing size required, in this case Blue or Yellow. The crankshaft journal and the rod bearings must not touch each other when in use so are very precisley separated by a layer of engine oil continuously pumped in by the oil pump. The rod bearings are cheaper to make so are made more accurately and the colour coded to suit the crank. Regarding the tensioner it may be that it is hydraulically controlled using the engine oil and cannot be dismantled to clean out any metallic debris from the engine failure so it would be good practice to replace it to avoid damage to the rebuilt engine. anybody still awake after that?
There is a multi on copart right now that you may be able to get everything off, as you'd need it I'd think if using a much later (DVT) motor
