1200 Multistrada Noobie - Buying Advice

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by flatairbag, Dec 7, 2017.

  1. Hi, I currently own a couple of Ducati Superbikes and have been considering a Multistrada.

    Was looking at the 1200S model, then saw an older 11' Pikes Peak model.. then read about skyhook and loads of other shit.. and got all confused.. so thought to ask for advice.
    My budget is around 7 - 7,500

    For that sort of money what years/models are worth considering or staying away from... and is a higher mileage an issue for these type of bikes if they have a decent service history?

    Thanks for the support.
     
  2. Late a model as possible. Pre-DVT sport with skyhook would be my choice, MY14,but no idea if that’s in your budget.
     
  3. Cheers mate. Did Skyhook come out in 13' ?
     
  4. Yes iirc. I had an early one which was my13.

    Many like the model before ohlins version with the ohlins SCU which makes it semi-active. But twinsaprk motor a lot smoother than the first single spark ones.
     
  5. There are a few available for below 8k, including up to 2013 skyhook bikes. I dont think you will find any 2015 DVT bikes for less than around 11k.

    Generally I would agree to buy the latest you can. However, my preference would be to buy a pre skyhook bike. The Ohlins on the S bikes is much better than the skyhook imo (its more compliant, and with the ohlins ecu becomes semi active anyway). If you dont try an ohlins bike first you probably will not care about that though, as the skyhook is still good.

    There were other minor changes such as the twin spark head (2013 on), that made the engine a bit smoother and more fuel efficient. Asside from that there isnt much to choose between them.
    The 2010 bikes had a few funnies, but these should all be dealt with a long time ago now.

    Hope that helps.

    (p.s. just seen Bradders reply, which wasnt there when I started typing :D )
     
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  6. Hi John, thats what I needed to know.. very helpful.
    So Im right in thinking that to get a twin spark head you have to go Skyhook?
     
  7. Would be worth checking with a dealer, as I thought some of te late, pre skyhook models were TS.

    It can be mapped out, and the older the model, the rawer the ride. Some love that, some less so.
     
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  8. I could be wrong, but I thought twinspark was introduced for 2013.
    I have a late 2012 model and its not twinspark.

    Bradders is right though that the earlier bikes have a harsher power delivery. The twinspark makes the bike more tractable at lower revs, and the power band hit at around 7k revs is consequently a bit less.
    If you dont ride an earlier bike you will still almost certainly be real pleased with a 2013 on bike. This is noticeable to those of us that have ridden them all, but none are bad bikes.

    I would buy on history, mileage and condition, not necessarily on model year. I would also buy an S. If you choose to buy a non S model, be aware that before 2013 there was also a base (non S) model with no abs.

    Here we are 7 years on and the 2010 bikes that cost ~15k new are still at half their original value. I dont see the bottom dropping out of their prices any time soon, and no specific years or models are any worse reliability wise than others.
     
  9. oh, one other thing, the screen went from a manual adjust (via 2 big plastic nuts) and 3 bolt mounting, to a single hand adjustable 4 bolt mounting. That also happened for the 2013 model.
     
  10. Yeah, TS was 13 on, but still, to me my TS was not as nice a ride as my DVT is, up and down the bloody box at low speeds like you wouldn't believe. If as some people say, the pre TS was rougher then I'm glad I never rode one. But if that sort of ride is your bag go for it. I would recommend a test ride before purchas.
     
  11. If buying a 2010-11 Multi, make sure it has had the cylinder heads replaced. If it's a low mileage (<20K) example with the original heads still on it, avoid like the plague.
     
  12. My twin spark skyhook is a 62 plate.
     
  13. I agree with John W above. I would buy on history, mileage and condition over a certain year, plus on what you can afford.
    As far as suspension, some people like the skyhook and some don’t. Nothing wrong with either choice. That’s kind of a personal choice as to what you prefer and what kind of riding you’ll be doing. If you’re only commuting solo for example the non-skyhook would be fine for you, just set it and forget it, but if you’re going from track days to off-road to touring to riding a pillion,etc.,the skyhook comes in handy for changing things quickly. Some people like to fiddle and tinker and some don’t.
     
  14. Pete, are you implying that there was an inherit design weakness with the cylinder head on these two years? 20K is nothing for a modern sports touring adventure type?
     
  15. Quite a few, but not loads and loads, had the head issues. Not like the fuel sender, that seemed to affect all bikes for a while!!
     
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  16. I believe it was to do with the coolant. Some went to the dealers and just had the coolant done without the head change but me, I’d rather have had the head change and coolant done as the old coolant would have still had a chance to do the nasty.

    Fuel senders have been an issue all the way through and people still have the odd issue on the DVT. My 2010 fuel sender was always good as gold.

    Some early models did have a problem with the radiator internals breaking down but that was cured with a newer rad. Few people had bearing issues on the earlier ones too but again, different part number on the newer. Me, I’d be going twin spark just to make sure I had all the newer part iterations.
     
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  17. Seen a tidy 2011 S model today with 23,000 on clock. Full ducati service history and full termi system.
    Would sell for £6400.
    Seems a lot of bike for the money but I’m hesitant now that it’s too early a model and perhaps to pay a bit more for a 13 on would be a better buy.

    What’s high mileage then for a multi with regular service history?
     
  18. For your budget there is a Pikes Peak with 21K on Ebay....
    An awesome bike and I'm trying to buy it right now, but only to add to a collection of Mutleys I've had (and have).
    This is a proper Pikes Peak with some of the best toys.

    I correctly mapped (see CJS in Bristol) MTS1200PP will be a better performing engine than any of the bikes up to DVT. I don't know the DVT as I've never ridden one.
    I love the Ohlins and with the Semi-Auto Ohlins ECU it is brilliant. IMHO the skyhook is easier to set up and live with.
    Any of the bikes.... disable the stupid flappy exhaust valve... it's just for EU regulations and a total PITA.

    Take a seasoned Mutley man with you to check it over.

    Heads for corrosion / leaks
    Oil seals
    DES errors
    shit rear brake
    gear shift errors
    Faulty heated grips
    bad fuel senders
    bad electronic fuel caps
    broken luggage mounts
    missing centre stand rubbers (PP shouldn't have this).

    I love the bike and would have another in a heartbeat.....
    You'll wonder why you ever rode a sports bike on the road.
     
    #18 AirCon, Dec 8, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2017
  19. Yes. The whole subject has been exhaustively discussed. There was a batch of cylinder head castings where the alloy between the coolant passages and the ports was too thin. After 15K or 20K miles, fine cracks appear in the castings and coolant starts to get into the ports. This gradually gets worse, until the the only option is to replace the heads. Provided this has already been done under warranty, all is well and engines last for many years. If you are offered a low mileage example where the problem has not yet manifested itself, so that if it does you will have to pay for the parts and work at your own expense - don't buy it. The stuff about different types of coolant is a side issue.
     
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  20. You are welcome to ride mine sometime, if you wish @AirCon .
     
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