Thanks for the replies...much appreciated. Pauldonjuan...If the chain adjusters were in that position with the new chain on, I wouldn't be worried...but when it's got a new chain on they could be right up on the first notch, but not knowing how much my old chain has stretched from new it's all guess work, I reckon going for a new 96 link chain would be a bit of a risk. Desmo/Steviegtr...The adjustment range looks quite large from notch 1 to notch 11...but I suppose it can't make that much difference, can it? I know dropping the forks a few MM through the yokes can make a difference to turn in, if you are a 'racer type'...me, I don't think I'd notice at all! I think I might have to go for a 98 link chain and be prepared to go at it with an angle grinder if it's too long...was just hoping to avoid doing that.
Loudpipes, cant off the top of me head remember if I had to do the same last year. I have 15/39 too and got a new chain. Like you I have in the past got a slightly longer one and cut a link or two off. Sometimes the price for the chain is the same sonit make sense. It only takes a couple of minutes to do and it gives you piece of mind. Measure twice and cut once!
I found that a lot of the round town snatchiness isn't down to sprocket size, but more to do with getting the carbs set up correctly. FWIW, my 750 had a DID 520ZVM chain on stock sprockets and it was OK around town - the only issue was 30mph at a constant speed - had to switch between 2nd and 3rd gears depending on a slight gradient change. Note that if fiddling about with a DID chain, you need to use the correct riveting tool - DID KM500R. Although there is a lower cost alternative available which does the job just as well. Bickers catalogue reference number 5914609, which I think is the Powerite one. Apparently when DID upgraded the 520ZVM and 520ZVM 2 (essentially the same chain) to the 520 ZVM-X chain; DID retained the same part / reference numbers for them which unfortunately included the ZJ link. I gather this did for a while cause an awful lot of confusion with various dealers. Anyway my chain albeit was in good condition but ‘out of date’ and the link I required was the old type ZJ link. If using a DID chain here is a useful chart for the rivet flares.
I'm just going to go with a 98 link chain and go from there. If it needs shortening then I will just use a grinder. Then comes the riveting...I'd never realised it was such an exact science. I bet most of the places I've taken my bikes to have chains replaced just use a hammer. Arquebus...I had a look for the DID tool...most places are out of stock...though I did find one...£114! ...The Powerite version is about £40...much more acceptable..Thanks for the heads up on this. I like the look of the 'Whale' chain riveter (£80 though)...you just give it a crack with a hammer...then I read that these are only to be used on 'hard' links and not 'soft' links...Any truth in this?
If you take a hammer to a DID chain rivet, you may be in trouble. Tomorrow I will have a look in my spares box - I think I have a brand new DID link in case you mess yours up, but it would have to be the right one for the chain you buy.
Arquebus..thanks for the offer...hopefully I won't need it! I think I'll pick up a DID 'style' riveter...they say they can handle any brand of chain...and see how I get on.
I would suggest that a hammer and centre punch would do the job if you are a) confident b) careful and c) can do it off the bike on a bench (this may not be possible on all models). There is a chance you can cock it up so confidence is key - as well as checking the pin dimensions after twatting
Found a new DID 520VM O ring chain spring link and a new DID 520ZVM O ring ZJ link (not new X type). I doubt if I will use them - converted to belt drive. AL
Thanks for the KM500 instructions...sure they will come in handy as I'm expecting limited or no instructions with the Powerite tool. Thanks for the heads up on the Powerite tool on Ebay...I'll check it out. Just ordered a 98 link DID chain, so hopefully can get it all fitted next week Arquebus...It's a 520 VXGB X ring...hopefully I won't need the extra links, but thanks for the offer.
The links I have won't do the job IIRC. See the problems with chains - I'm glad I changed to belt drive.
j0n3s...Hmmm...I will endeavour NOT to try that again...thanks Arquebus...swapped to belt drive? sounds expensive! How does it look?
