Yo Hill Country dude! Bike looks GREAT! Regardless of what's been posted here you'd pay around double for that bike in the UK in that kinda condition these days, the FCRs alone go for around the £700+ mark. Don't worry about the galley/gallery plug, just check your oil at each change and enjoy the bike - I've had a few 900SS' for over two decades now and they're a great bike in the twisties, really satisfying once you get confident with it. If you like to 'do corners' then there's loads of info on setting up these bikes to handle better, push the forks up through the triple clamp to lower the front of the bike (because the rake angle is a bit shallow for faster turning), and fit a used later injected-SS rear shock (about £60-£80) as it is longer (the back is too low), or if you have the cash then get an Ohlins for it - the later injected 1000SS had these as standard and they are ride height adjustable. As far as tyres go i would recommend a 180/60 profile rear tyre as it is a 10mm taller tyre (pretty much as tall as a 190) and that will help with the rear ride height issue mentioned above. Pirelli Rosso III are GREAT tyres for street and track days unless you're intending on breaking lap records. Fit a Nichols lightweight flywheel if you want the bike to rev a bit faster and turn a little easier too. If you do longer trips you'll find the seat a bit soft, take the cover off, cut out a rectangle of foam under the rider area, insert higher density foam with a layer or two of memory foam on the top, refit the cover and job done. It's pretty amazing how much these 'little' bikes can be thrown around when you get used to it. Enjoy your appreciating classic SS Ducati!
When you check the frame for cracks as Old Rider says, look under the two top frame tubes about 15mm - 35mm where they meet the headstock.
And at the front of the tubes where they meet the headstock tube. It's worth mentioning that Nichols Manufacturing make a pair of gusset plates for strengthening this area, although any metal worker worth his salt could make you some. It's also worth checking the alloy swingarm for cracks, around where the pinch bolts are for the swingarm pivot, and around where the lower shock mount is.
There was s guy on here making a bolt on frame brace to prevent the dreaded cracking. Nichols also make a pair of slim nuts that lock together to replace the single oem flywheel nut that's prone to coming loose.
Alternator Rotor Retaining Nut The Points to watch for link on his site is excellent: Ducati Points to Watch For But at the same time remember only the bad things get reported, and all of those are rare on a well looked after engine. If nothing else it will give you peace of mind to check them and something to tinker with. Nasher
The main thing is to be aware. I was unlucky enough to get both a cracked frame and the alternator nut come loose. However, I was also very lucky. I got what was probably the last replacement frame supplied by Ducati, although I had to do all the work myself. I was also very fortunate in that when the nut loosened, I was able to ride the bike home on one cylinder and I only had to replace the ignition pick ups - no other damage.
It's inside the left side engine case, which has an outrigger bearing incorporated in it. Theoretically, you should drain the oil but if you lean the bike well over to the right to don't need to. Personally, as the Nichols nuts are not expensive and should be fit and forget, I'd fit a pair of those. As for the frame cracks, Id see if I could get hold of one of the bolt on braces, as prevention is enormously better than cure. My personal view is that the harshness of the forks doesn't exactly help, so I put lighter oil in so that bumps are absorbed by the forks instead of the frame
