Do you get this screen on your device, with the OBD-II icon? I've used that successfully on my old Prius and a mate's 2014 VW T5 so it'd be worth a go. I just connected and selected Autoscan to search for matching ECU. Didn't work on a friend's 2005 VW Polo so it's pot luck.
Thanks @Keith_P I do get the generic OBD-II option but from what I've read it will only give very basic generic code reading functions, nothing brand specific or give me the ability to turn off a service notification or EML warning. My generic reader is pretty good and will at least turn the EML warning off on most vehicles, but not the service notification.
I've cleared codes on both vehicles. On the Prius I got 100% access and just basic EML on the VW. Better than nothing tho
Caused by low/no voltage from the battery. The ‘pump’ you heard was, most likely, the rear shock running running through its range of movement to establish its equilibrium. It happens every time the battery is disconnected/reconnected or if the voltage drops too low it interprets it as a disconnection of the battery. With a bit of luck you may find the other error codes are also due to a low battery voltage as the various systems connected via the canbus, of which the ABS is one, don’t like it when the voltage drops too low. What exactly do the error codes say and what is their code number? It most likely begins with a U.
Had similar low voltage issue with my VW Tiguan (used VCDS for diagnostics, not the OBDStar); various errors coming up on the dash over time. The only one that was real was the glow-plug module which I replaced. As it's 8 years old I replaced the battery a couple of weeks later which required coding to the car. After that all the electrical gremlins disappeared and haven't returned in over 8 months. Seems that low voltage plays havoc with the CANbus system. As @West Cork Paul says, a battery disconnect starts the bike with a clean slate and it needs to recalibrate the Skyhook.
Thanks guys. Yep, I'm convinced most of the codes will not come back once cleared with a new battery. Having owned CANBUS Land Rovers for years now I'm used to low voltage effecting one ECU and others downstream coming out in sympathy. If you jump in any LR from the last 20 years with air suspension and get a special programmes off message, which is the 4x4 system you can almost guarantee it's time for a new battery.
Brought a new battery this morning and charged it until my charger said it was ready to go. Swapped it for the old battery and when I turned the ignition on the bike went through it's Pre-Load calibration again. Pressed the starter and despite turning over quicker than it's ever done in my ownership it still won't start. It's trying to fire, I can hear it, but it doesn't keep running. Fuel is getting through as I can smell it. Tried several times and plugged the OBD Star back in. Tried reading the DTC codes and there is nothing, not a single one. I've plugged in my battery charger again and will try again later. All I've done since it was running is change the annual service date to a years time and clear down all the old fault codes. Any suggestions? I ought to start a new thread I suppose to keep this thread to using the OBD Star, unless anything I've done could have stopped it running.
I've not had any issues with separately changing the service date or resetting the service light using the OBDStar.
Leave the new battery on the charger for several hours, eg overnight or a complete 24hrs. Let the charger run through a few charging cycles. If you still have the same problems tomorrow, connect a multimeter to the battery terminals and note what the voltage falls to whilst the engine is cranking.
Thanks @West Cork Paul, but it's turned out to be something else. Found this thread and got it started: https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/fails-to-start.67666/
Interesting. I read the other thread, and the posts linked to from that. I’m curious though. When the twist grip is twisted, the throttle valves will be opened, how much the valves open depends upon the degree the twist grip is moved through and the riding mode the bike is in. As the throttle valves are open the TPS will also be moved away from its rest position, which, logic dictates, would inform the ECU to dose more fuel. So, yes, more air can pass but also more fuel will be dosed. Thats without considering what the stepper motor (auto choke) is doing. I would be interested to know what temperature the air sensor is telling the ECU it is compared to the actual temperature. I’d also be interested to know what the injector opening times are ie how much fuel is being dosed when the engine is cranking. You may not care now you’ve found a work around but that info should be available and visible in the live parameters section of your diag tool.
I didn't have the tool plugged in when trying to start the bike at any stage, but yes it would be great to have a better understanding of what's going on, as the explanation of more air being available to better match the over fuelling doesn't really work for me. Like you I'd expect the ECU to also be throwing lots of additional fuel in to match the throttle opening. Perhaps the over fuelling due to a low temp glitch is less of a percentage of the total fuelling at fully open throttle settings than at a closed setting so it makes less of a difference. If that makes sense. I'll see what chance I get to investigate tomorrow.
Some EFI systems have a "Flood" mode, opening throttle/Accelerator fully before cranking cuts the fuel to clear the flood.
