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V4 Oil Change

Discussion in 'Panigale' started by spooky, Sep 4, 2023.

  1. So... I've looked through what workshop manuals I can find but I couldn't seem to see the exact recommended procedure for an engine oil change.

    I'll be picking up a filter shortly and believe I need to remove the bolts on the cover and put M8 bolts in, tighten evenly to pry the cover off and then the filter should come out... easily? Anything more to it than that? Loctite of some description on the bolts when they go back in to secure the cover? Do the o-rings need to be replaced?

    I've got a dry clutch on my bike (Panigale SP2) - Motul 300V 15W50 (Factory Line Road Racing 4T) is the one?

    I'll need a crush washer for the magnetic bolt but what's the torque value? I saw something about 90 degrees, different numbers and it all started to look a bit Greek... Also, there's some paste you are supposed to put in?

    Generally, drain for a few hours, weigh what you took out and put the same back in, assuming the level was ok to start with, run for five minutes or so and then leave for a few hours and check the level again?

    Better to have the level nearer the low mark for track-only use?

    I'd appreciate tips, pointers, etc.

    I've got a track weekend this week and I don't want to make a dumb mistake and bugger something up. I could leave it until after but I've already done about 1,200km or so on track since the last oil change, which would have been the break-in service, so I guess I really should do this now. I'm not going particularly fast on track but it's getting more use than Starbucks and back.
  2. Try page 91 “changing the oil”
  3. I’ll try and find it… I appreciate the help.
  4. I’m probably being a bit dense, but how do you find page 91… It seems like a collection of files organised in alphabetical order with no page numbers on them.
  5. We must have different versions of the same document. I downloaded mine from the first link which times out, the Dropbox link must have a different format. Have you not a search function on your file viewer?

    IMG_4069.jpeg IMG_4070.jpeg IMG_4071.jpeg IMG_4072.jpeg IMG_4073.jpeg
  6. Thanks @KA77

    Different to what I downloaded from the link and what I already have. It’s really hard to find stuff when it’s broken down like that and a search of the documents didn’t seem to find the information.

    ThreeBond 1207B… what? A quick search shows nobody has it anywhere near me. I am surprised that a crush washer is insufficient.

    Lithium grease used as well - I usually just use some of the engine oil…

    If I need to obtain these things then it looks like I won’t be getting this done before the next track weekend.

    Oh well, fingers crossed. :confused:
  7. #9 KA77, Sep 4, 2023
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2023
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  8. I’m in the Czech Republic. I can get a delivery brought over toward the end of the month but I don’t think I can get it in time for the track weekend (Friday to Sunday at Most, which should be interesting as I’ve not been there before).

    I’ll stick with using new oil to lube - it’s what I’ve done with cars before.
  9. Apparently the Ducati dealer here is happy to sell me a tube. :upyeah:
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  10. Pre-flight check revealed that I can’t get my torque wrench on it due to the exhaust…

    Solution? I think there is a spanner type attachment?
  11. I have one of these that seems to allow me access, but is it okay to use that with a torque wrench?
    There’s not much room to work on these things:rolleyes:
  12. Can you get a crows foot adapter in there? Though when you use a torque wrench with them you’ll have to do a bit of maths to get the right figure. I have read that if you apply the wrench at right angles to the crows foot you don’t have to adjust the torque. Not sure I can get my head around that though so don’t know if it’s true or not.
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  13. I cannot even locate a crows foot attachment for my torque wrench anywhere within a 2.5 hour drive (and that's not happening). I seem to recall something about doing maths with them as well.

    I guess that swivel adapter isn't going to work ok with a torque wrench?

    Just when I thought I was ready to go... Glad I checked I could get the torque wrench in before taking the bolt out... :joy:
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  14. I remember when I was living in CZ. No native Amazon coverage back then so it was nowhere near as easy to waste ones money as it is in blighty :joy:
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  15. I tried an extension and although it’s not perfect, I can get the socket on good enough – maybe a degree or two off but there’s a bit of movement on the exhaust and the extension goes underneath so that should be fine.

    The oil is currently draining. Hardly any metal on the magnetic plug and what was there was very tiny.

    i’ve hardly made any mess so far either – a distinct improvement on emptying the entire oil content of my Porsche 964 on the garage floor… That was a lot of oil.
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  16. Where should the liquid gasket go? On the part of the crush washer that will be against the oil pan?

    I’ve put new O-rings on as well on the basis of ‘why not’.
  17. 2745g of oil removed and the same put back in and it was at the same level in the sight glass. I presume it should go down a bit as it has a new filter. I’m leaving the engine running for 15 minutes and then I will let it cool down. It seems to be holding its temperature fine.

    Before doing anything and with the bike cold the oil was at the top line, which I think is maybe a bit high when it it is on track? I’ll be interested to see where it is after I’ve let it cool down.

    It seems to be quite a straightforward process. I needed to give the filter cover a very light tap with a rubber hammer to get it to go in, but I guess that’s fine. Obviously I had put oil on the o-rings.
  18. For track use only, it is recommended the oil level is on the lower mark. You will however need to keep an eye on it between track day outings. Andy
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