Oil In The Airbox!!!

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Cream_Revenge, Oct 22, 2015.

  1. Keep going Cream – if you take an average of everything that is said on here you won't be far out. Early doors you can start to think that number four cylinder might be more of a culprit than other 3 so make sure that bore gets a good soaking. When looking for faults or tuning carbs, you can ( very briefly or possibly with a garden glove!) touch each downpipe in turn to see if they are all similar temp. You might find number four is colder than the other 3. If you are happy that it's running on four cylinders ( new or clean plugs) all beit roughly, don't leave the choke on longer than you have to do/don't let idle at low revs for long periods as everyone has said.
     
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  2. A couple of very short jabs
     
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  3. Running engine for very short period does them no favours it would seem.

    I might just bite bullet and buy new CnS if general consensus not a big expensive problem. Issues is, these bikes just aren't worth anything.
     
  4. Definitely don't be put off by crankcase pressure/oil vapour going to airbox as it could be a temporary thing. I didn't appreciate that you wouldn't be able to run it around the block when I suggested the Redex - you need to leave it soaking for a day or more after that, the next bit will be very smoky and of course noisy so hope no neighbour problems etc.
     
  5. and then dump your new 30-40 sqids worth of fresh oil and filter. :smile::smile:
     
  6. Neighbours are old (deaf) one side and very tolerant (so far) the other.
     
  7. Really???
     
  8. if your gonna leave redex/coke/brown sauce whatever in a bore over night yes.
     
  9. yip. the choice is yours.
     
  10. Can the plugs be cleaned up? As said, only done a few miles although 18months old.
     
  11. But some new ones tight arse
     
  12. My experience ( I agree with other posts)

    If I left my carb R6 standing for a long time it would probably run crap too but I would not worry.

    I'd give it a once over if I was you and then take it for a good ride before you do anything else (because it ran fine before) Get some heat through it and oil round it etc...

    As for gummed up rings it is possible but I've never had it on lots and lots of bikes, and I've had used engines with no known history, stored engines for years... I have numerous engines on the shelf right now. We raced one I had parked up for year (with no issue)

    As you say it worked fine last time you used it, I'd lean towards gummy rings is perhaps not the issue even though it maybe so don't rule it out.

    I'd expect that would be quite obvious though!

    Low compression, a 600cc bike will start with 100psi on most cylinders with a good battery but something like a gsxr 600 probably makes 150psi or more (check the manual) If you were down on multiple cylinders to the point your leaking compression into your crankcases. I would expect you'd have to turn it over loads just to get it to start and (if it was rings not sealing) it would possible be burning oil too, it would probably have very irratitic tick over and you would not be able to get it to tick over smoothly. However some of this could also be due to a number of things, valve clearances etc... coils packing up, low voltage... (I guess this is why other forum members did not want to digress)

    (most of these issues do not happen in storage up to a point, if the bike was running sweet last time, they are more likely to happen over time with age and use or if you thrash it to death)

    Oil in airbox is normal to some extent even a little puddle in the low area if it's not had the air box apart in ages, the mist out the exhaust is water vapor probably, you'll get this when you park a warm engine up over night when it's cold out. You will see it if in the paddocks on a fresh morning.

    You can even get sweating inside the crankcases when storing a bike over winter (may make the oil look a bit iffy) if normal (not a head gasket) this will burn off and water level will stay normal.

    Bikes foul plugs if you keep starting them for a short time, lots of people advise against it. You might be able to clean them with a wire brush if they are sooty (take it for a blast get it hot and see if they are nice colour) if they are gummed up might be a bit more concerning.

    Better than a compression test if it comes to it, get a leak down test might have to speak to race engine builder rather than a GP.

    You put a precise amount of compressed air down the spark plug hole via a bit of kit, with each cylinder at tdc with valves closed you can tell, if exhaust valves leak, or inlet, or rings (by where the air comes out) by ear or feel... a decent test, will give you % to work too.

    A race engine builder did do this for me before I put a motor in - I've had old motors giving 98% across all 4 cylinders that run sweet but are down on peak HP so don't be concerned if it's not perfect it won't be unless it's been stripped and refreshed - you won't tell the difference, unless you racing competitively.

    Oh and yes - feel headers too when you first fire it up as also previously stated...

    I suspect, it will just need a good going over, maybe carbs cleaned properly + Make sure the water has anti freeze / coolant in over winter if you are not sure, I hope it has had.

    Good luck

    This may be all lies, so beware... I'm not Carl Foggarty :)
     
  13. In 2 weeks the 996 gets taken to Geoff@Baines for her 12k service. Bike budget is somewhat stretched currently
     
  14. Thanks. She starts perfect. Tick over fine. Will rev good and high.
     
  15. Ok. Plan.

    1: Buy redex and petrol can and fresh fuel today. Drain petrol out carbs. Good squirt of contact cleaner in HTT caps. Clean up spark plugs with contact cleaner and wire brush, gentle like.

    Put back together but won't start.

    2: order new chain link and soak old chain in old engine oil for a week while new link comes. Should be ok for testing purposes.

    Is this a really bad idea????

    3: put bike back together (real pain as just stripped it).

    4: take for MOT, tax it, go for a good blast. (Insurance on multi policy).

    5: Check plugs and air box.

    If all ok then strip again and carry on with forks, paint, etc, etc,

    I'd not........

    Sounds OK?
     
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  16. Any ideas on torque for these? Nothing in Haynes.[​IMG]
     
  17. what the plate periphery screws? - they will be gasket-ted - what type? - just nip them down 'so-so' as my best mate in the world used to say - the undoing torque will give you a clue - definitely don't go mad on them - no need.
     
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  18. sounds fine - I am old school and don't use torque wrenches on the whole but no point in discussing on here ;) - just had another glance at your pic - you will see the outer edge of the plate has a 'turned down' flange which means the tightening is self-limiting if you are careful i.e. - you can visually see that gasket is squashed to max plus torque required will increase quite suddenly (hopefully)
     
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