It happened once with one of my bikes (cant remember what make/model) but it refused to do anything until I removed the key, let it settle for 10mins , then re insert key and away she went! Just a thought....
Well , left the key out for about 4 hours this morn , nothing ,,, will wave it out ov nite see if that helps . Miserable cold wet day here today so doin nothin else !!
Naaa 10 mins should have done it.... anyone know if the sensor ring around Ignition barrel gives problems? or what symptoms if it does...Tnx
PS,, someone once mentioned, in an old post, that theres a small fuse behind battery box, its not mentioned in manual. apparently its for the immobiliser?
PPS. Also looking at the wiring Diag the Pump Feed (and coils) relay has a Brown (+) wire that feeds the Brown/White wire, these are the 2 that need bridging. The spades on the relay may be marked as No3 and No5 DONT feed 12v to the Brown/Black (-) wire, thats the N (-) from the relay coil...(Spade2). According to the wiring dia this relay is fed direct via a 20a fuse from the battery, so has a permanent Live, whether ignition is on, or off... Would be interesting to see what reading you get, from the feed connection, that the relay plugs into is? (12v) .
tbh although i know what you mean i think that is beyond me,, and i dont know how to use a multimeter even if i had one ...
well had left the key out ov nite,, put normal key in this morn and hey presto it primed up , didnt bother starting (as dont have time to warm it up properly ) but i know it will... not convinced it was anything to do with the key but left it out anyway, maybe time will tell,,,,,,,,,,,, what a fkn saga !!
I did mention before about your fuel filter. If that is partially/fully blocked you will get problems. Another aspect of a blocked filter is that the pump will have to work harder to do it's job, resulting in more current flow as the pump struggles to achieve it's objective. Higher current though the relay contacts means the contact tips will arc more and get pitted, resulting in intermittent or total failure to deliver the current.
i don't think it is that as it either primes - starts - and runs fine or not prime at all and not start
Totally pissed off with it ,,, and now working away from home so am just going to arrange dropping it off to Derek who is just down the road from me at a convenient yet to be arranged time and hopefully he can work his wizardry on the fkn thing
skimming through the thread, could be many things as usual going by the symptoms described. It would definitely be worth removing and re-fitting ECU or even trying another one if you had access to a spare, as this is relatively easy to do and suits symptoms.
