So I went out today to try and have a fiddle and thought sod it I'll turn it over and as I did it started spluttering. If I give it a tiny bit of throttle it fires and runs but dies the send I drop it. Would this be a tps? Or is it possible to reset it without replacing?
SHES ALIVE!!! had a dodgy solenoid which I'm ashamed to admit I found by accident when taking the batter box off to check the wiring and gubbins in that area I took the 2 that sit on the back of the box and put them back in swapped round. turned ignition on and no fuel pump prime. It didn't completely fix the issue so I order new plugs after having a look at them and boom fired up off the button. While all that was going on I also got hold of a welder and chopped about 20mm out of the section where the butterfly valve is to give better clearance for the rear sub frame. as you can see from previous images I have to adapt the sub frame and space it to clear the exhaust. It looked bodged as f**k and my little legs meant I could only just reach the floor. this has now been rectified but as it always is solving one problem causes others and in this case roughly 6 or 7. Dropping the rear sub frame back down to its intended height meant the seat sits further back and as i was using an 848 tank and 999 seat there is now a gap not only in the nut sack area between tank and seat but the seat itself doesn't sit on the sub frame meaning its just floating which will no doubt at some point just collapse. Back to the 999 tank it is then. This is where the next problem came in. I managed to get a 1098 airbox to fit the frame without too many issues when using the 848 tank but it was never going to fit under the 999 one so that has been ripped apart to give me a "flatish" base to then graft the top 90% of the 999 box on. This also means the air duct fitment will be much easier. Next issue is fuel. obviously the 1098 injectors sit in the top of the box the 999 ones don't and mount on the inlet. Fortunately on Ducati ms someone has kindly posted up some 3d print files to fit 1199 injector mounts to the 1098 throttle bodies as part of their 916 / 1098 project. All in the change from 1098 to 1199 injection will be about £70 this includes ordering 2 parts new. Looking further into the injectors I will also gain over 10% extra flow rate so more room to tune when all up running.
So tried to bleed the read brake system today but struggling to get any sort of pressure. Fluid is being pushed out of the bleed nipple. Has anyone had this issues with the 1098 rears?
Has the rear brake system been without fluid for any length if time ? Potentially the seals in the master could have gone hard and aren’t doing their job. Depending on how you have routed the brake line, if you have anywhere that is looped and much higher than the caliper, you might get a better bleed if you remove the caliper and hold it up so it is the highest point in the system. Andy
I've now managed to get some 3d printed injector mounts that fit directly onto the 1098 TB's at the cheeky cost of £30 for materials. I'm going to have to run new fuel lines can someone point me in the direction of what lines I would need. preferably long lengths that I can cut to size. going from 999 fuel pump to 1098 injectors
Here are the printed parts. Guy did a fantastic job tweaking them to clear the air box lid and fit the injector perfectly. Super strong and very light as printed using part carbon fibre filament
Great build so far and +1 on the rear caliper bleed tips from Andy. If you feel flush, then buy some Stahlbus bleeders. They are worth the extra and save all the aggro when you next come to bleed your brakes or need to do a fluid change. Love the 3D printed inlet trumpets BTW!
So the project hasn't progressed any further since the last post and with 2 kids and a house to renovate it looks like its time to call it a day. Would anyone be interested in any parts or the project as a whole before i start stripping and having to deal with ebay? its a hard choice to make but I don't see it being finished any time soon
