Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Builds & Projects' started by Nasher, Sep 13, 2021.
Great stuff mate - really good work and nice to have her out on the road!
very nice, it looks a treat!
I've done a few more miles on the bike over the weekend and am getting a little more used to it, especially the warm Arse situation.
I can confirm having ridden both back to back that it is more comfortable than my 1000SS, less heavy on my wrists, and feeling physically bigger for me as a 6' bloke to fit on.
Lady Nasher tells me that the Racefit Exhaust which I re-packed is quieter than the Ducati Performance Remus cans on my 1000SS and M1000, although from the riding position I'd say she's possibly mistaken. It's a completely different sound, with both cylinder noises interacting in the Silencer rather than the 'X' header and two cans on the others.
Before riding it again I stripped the entire exhaust off and applied sealing paste to all the joints. The popping and banging on over-run is slightly better, but still a little to much for my liking. I'm assuming now it's down to the silencer, so may have to try the standard silencer I've gutted and rebuilt instead.
Is popping and Banging on over-run an issue with a Termi silencer?
I'm really pleased with the clutch on this one, I've rebuilt it the same as my other bikes, with the extra friction plate at the back and the stack height @3mm from the hub.
This one unlike the other two works great 1st time without any tweaking, so I've obviously learnt something.
It's completely silent with the clutch lever out at idle in Neutral, and doesn't make too much noise with the lever pulled in, exactly as I like them.
The setup on the bike transmission wise is std front sprocket and a 39 tooth rear, which I went for after much reading of old posts on here and elsewhere.
With the 180/55 rear tyre I'm getting 70mph at almost spot on 4K RPM, does that sound right to others with the same setup?
The popping and banging is down to fuelling. Most likely the bike running lean and unburnt fuel detonating in the exhaust. Playing with the CO setting may improve things.
You mean running rich. If it was running lean then there wouldn't be unburned fuel in the exhaust.
I suspect the up-map for cans/full systems remove decel fuel cut which will cause pops, bangs and the occasional flames. The full systems do away with the lambda sensors too which means you're in open loop fuelling all the time too, that combined with alpha N fuelling (fuel map is throttle pos Vs RPM rather than speed density of MAF based) means that running rich is kind of a given. My 1098 with the 70mm termi does it, not loads, just the odd crack and bang.
Nope, running lean. After fire popping is a running lean condition. No lambdas on the 999.
I have 57mm Termi system - no popping or banging.
I'm running the standard map at the moment, which obviously isn't helping, especially as both CATs have been removed.
So I suppose I should be expecting it really.
I've also started some work on the option of fitting the RS style Carbon single seat unit I picked up.
All I've done so far to the actual unit is clean it up a bit and get it ready to reattach the front part the seat bolts to.
Although I'm very tempted to use the original ABS part as a mould and recreate the part in Carbon before joining it to the back part.
I can't complain about the state of it as it was basically Free.
Of course to use the RS tail I need a Monoposto 'Style' Subframe.
I am obviously completely against the idea of spending £250 on a steel replica Mono subframe, or even more on an original Ali one, so need to turn to my spare Biposto one.
As most know it's possible to convert a Biposto subframe to Mono by cutting off the top loop and doing some other small mods.
I worked out where I'd need to cut it so I could weld back in the original bends from the top tube and make it look like it might have been meant to be that way.
So after a session with a 1mm cutting disc:
I cleaned it up with a grinding disc and welded the bends from the top tube in to finish it off again:
The welds need tidying up a bit more, and of course it needs painting, but I'll do that when I know it all fits and doesn't need more mods.
How about adding the adjustable mounting points to allow the tank to be adjusted in 3 positions. You will need 3 holes in the side plates as well.
fun fact for you, the position on the biposto subframe corresponds to the forward hole on the monoposto which is the shared position with the works bikes.
the RS seat unit was taken from the road bike forward section with the seat on it, and you can see that as it looks like it's got the road seat moulded into it.
If I were you I'd take your mould from the plastic seat and mounting using the vents as datums to align everything with if you want the road bike geometry. If you don't then your seat will be at + 10-15mm in Za. RS seat foam sits higher than the roadbike relative to fwd mounting holes.
you may as well box up that rear section on the subframe like an RS subframe if you're going to those lengths as it supports the tail unit much nicer. Should be simple enough for a man of your calibre.
Brilliant idea Sev, thanks.
no need to thank me, it's pretty obvious to see, and the execution is hardly rocket science
Once you get past the fact its an RS part it's all pretty rough really.