It doesn't take 200 miles to adapt. It constantly adapts, but they recomment a couple of hundred before saving the base map (to be honest, I never got around to saving the base map on mine and it was perfect). This saving just means it keeps self adjusting from a better position (adjustment is limited, I guess as a fail safe), but isn't essential.... and I wouldn't save it if you are thinking of swapping baffles in and out.
Fitting it looks a ball ache. I assume you dont need to plug your laptop in and can just leave it. I say this as I am Mac at home. I will need to purloin a windoze lappie from work.
well i guess i didn't make myself as clear as maybe i should have. the Autoadapt function will make changes to the base map table as per the perimeters you have included in the settings page. for example + 14 and - 10 in regards to the max and minimum deviation the the AFR as target. if like Bootsam (and myself) need the option, or would like to get the best out of the unit, then it makes sense to start with a base map with for example dB eaters fitted and run the first 200 miles and review the changes in the autoadapt window. there you will see if any of the target points have already achieved max deviation as per the settings given. I would then save this map as ' exhaust X plus dB killers' and then revert to the base or start map to create a map for the exhaust without dB killers. the benefit of this this is that your auto adaptive adjustments will be based on the condition (db fitted etc) and not just tring to readjust to the fitted or missing dB killers. this is what i have done for the 1299s i have and ran 2 map set ups for with and without dB killers, so any auto adaptive changes are improvements on the matching map.. this autoadaptive function can be monitored for the changes illustrated and you will see how much correction is happening, and when correction is in the low figures, for example +/- 2 or 3 then you can save this as a 'final map' and let the autoadaptive function fine tune. it can take many miles to get to the 'final map' stage, but if you constantly change the bikes condition, dB killers air filters etc then you will only adapt to the recognised changes, and not really gain much improvement.
Fitting is not too bad, you have to run the harness behind the radiator, not in between the engine like the instructions tell you to. Well that's unless they've changed the instructions
The instructions said between cylinders. I did that. What a fucking ball ache. I managed it, but not before I used up my entire years worth of expletives and basil fawlty impersonations. Today I just need to affix the module, place USB connector where I can access it and put on side panels. I also weaselled an windoze laptop from work, so happy days. Its easier if you remove a coolant pipe. So I have to wait until tomorrow when new OAT red coolant arrives, before I fire her up.
i run the cables behind the radiator as well, it just means you have to undo the lower rd mountings and use a cardboard tube to feed the harness through, to prevent any damage to the rad itself. on the 1199 i have mounted the unit on the left side of the rad shroud, and on the 1299 the Ohlins ECU sits here so i fixed it to the Fan housing.
Completed. Plus I've backed up rapid bike file just in case for future. I mounted the rb eco on back of oil cooler fan shroud. Quite a nice fit. I made use of a cut off bit off wooden broom handle to shove injector loop thru. Life GOT easier once I removed oil cooler top water pipe. Then it all passed thru ok. I was mucho frustrated until I eventually gave up to my orig thought that I should remove it first, but no I had to try it anyways and frustrate the shit out of myself. All I need to do now is top up coolant when it arrives. She's due a service in 350m, so I bought this coolant for now as agip special i couldn't get a delivery before 28th March. They'll replace it all on service anyways.
I got the agip too I’ve got 1.5l left if you need it. Both the monster and the panigale didn’t take near what the book says they should. Took mine for a ride today and after sending the map to the main table and resetting the fuelling is definitely better. I should have done this ages ago.
Thanks but it arrives tomorrow, so no big deal. Besides my thighs, butt cheeks and back ache tae fuck. Im getting too old for this shit. I need a bike lift.
Just trying to get my head around this thing as I've never looked at it before and someone has a Rapidbike EVO for sale that I'm considering. I replaced the engine on my 2015 Panigale R with an RS engine from a race bike and a super stock exhaust. I need a power commander or something similar so I'm guessing this should do the trick? Would appreciate if anyone can answer the questions below: - Can you download maps from the website to use as a starting point or do you reset it to 'zero' and then let it self learn?? - The unit for sale is from a Panigale 959. I understand the cabling harness is all the same. Is it literally plug it in , turn on self learn and I have everything I need for a good time?! - Is the race version with the ignition maps a completely different unit or can you upgrade to Evo to the Race?? Thanks for the help
race and evo models have different facilities, as the Race model allows changes to the ignition map. i have changed over 3 RB evo models now, and its very simple to do- but im not sure how the RS motor as a start point would influence the start mapping point.
So it's not just a software upgrade but a different piece of hardware? It would be good to have ignition control as well as fueling but to be realistic I'd be better getting that sorted by someone who can do a proper map on the ECU anyhow?
Just looking at your build on another thread, i would go down the Individual mapping route.. it might be a good idea to speak to MotoRapido and see what thez can do for you as apackage.. the SSTK ecu might be an option as well, https://www.ducati-kaemna.com/super...c2&___store=tuning_en&___from_store=tuning_de
Yes individual mapping and possibly a different ECU is likely the way I will go later but because I am racing the BMW and dont know what the future plans are with the Panigale R yet I want to get it up and running in a straight forward and cheaper manner. The smaller BSB teams are using (stock ECU I think?) with a power commander for the fuelling and it looks to be successful. I want to get an idea of how good the autotuner feature on the rapid bike evo is and also if I'm likely to regret not going straight for the Race version instead of the Evo? My thinking is that the Power Commander is just doing fuelling so this is sufficient?
without knowing the differences in Cam timing, compression, exhaust etc from the RS to the R model would say that there might be a completely different ignition map as a start point
