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Rear wheel removal

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by johnv, Jul 5, 2012.

  1. I don't tighten mine up to 230Nm any more. Something like 200Nm, which I think is plenty, I mark the hub and nut and fit a cable tie to the spring clip. That's how I noticed the stealers hadn't removed the rear wheel at the 15k service like they should do to grease the rear hub....should I say something to them about it?....
     
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  2. The tie wrap is belt and braces and is Exactly as I do / did on the 996.

    Yes I should say something as in effect they are taking money off you without completing any work.
     
  3. I keep the Oberon tool as an emergency under-the-seat measure, but where possible I'll always use the monster socket and breaker bar combo that sits in the toolchest.
     
  4. You can get the smaller (oberon-like) tool in stainless steel - like the oberon one it has a 55mm and 39mm socket combined for front and back nuts. Boomer has one but not sure where he got it from - some on eBay possibly....
     
  5. Yeah got it off E-bay, Stainless and very hard, used it several times now, and never had any bother 1 great piece of kit!
     
  6. Do i have to remove the exhaust to get the rear wheel off? Cant seem to waggle the wheel round it to get it out.
     
  7. Ok done it now. Seems the answer is yes.
     
  8. Ive not yet had the pleasure of removing mine. But out of curiosity why would you need it either in gear or the brake applied for the axle nut? As I say Ive not removed a single sided wheel , but none of my other conventional bikes had the axle nut associated to the drive train.


    Edit : Ah I see what you mean. 230nm on a free standing bike :)

    Double Edit : Crap, just realised my torque driver only goes up to 210nm. Pfft, something else to go on the list as I always take my wheels in loose for tires.
     
    #28 Psy69, Sep 26, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2013
  9. With a double-sided swinging arm, the axle and nut are stationary - the wheel bearings are in the wheel itself. With single-sided, the whole axle and nut rotate - the wheel itself has no bearings.
     
  10. Ah right, I see. thanks :)
     
  11. I have one of these ^, its a handy tool to have, loads of torque, but I only use mine to remove nuts, never putting back on!
     
    #31 srad34, Sep 26, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2013

  12. I personally wouldn't worry about the extra 20nm. But the choice is yours.
     
  13. A good breaker bar will undo the rear wheel easy enough.

    They are cheap to buy and handy to have in the tool tray.

    Just had a pair of Angel GT's fitted £240 to loose wheels.
     
  14. Wish I'd seen this before wasting my time with the Oberon tool! To be fair, once off, it should be fine, but its bloody useless for removal.,.. which kind of defeats the object!! This is the first time I've removed the wheel (tyre fitter did the earlier one) and I just couldn't shift it! I DO NOT believe it has been tightened to (only) 230Nm - me on end of 0.7m bar has to be twice that!!! Steel socket and bar here I come!!!
     
  15. I bought the Dewalt DCF899 , wound these wheel nuts off without breaking a sweat. Awesome tool for any nut, not found anything yet it won't spin.
     
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  16. Treated myself to one of these. The thing is a brute. The batteries seem to last forever as well.
     
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  17. Absolutely mate, bought this, the brushless drill and the angle grinder as all used same battery. Lately I built a new shed, assembled new fencing, drilled out the stupid multistrada exhaust butterfly and spun all wheel nuts off and on a car and it's still showing 2 out if 3 power lights on battery. Phenomenal kit!! :upyeah:
     
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  18. Wow, the Dewalt DCF899 is rated at 950 Nm Sustained Torque. I thought the price was good too at about £160, then I noticed that this was without a battery and charger. So the total cost is nearer £240.

    I never that any trouble getting the wheel side nut off with a 3/4" drive breaker bar but I can't undo the sprocket side nut off. I usually ask the wife to hold down the back brake but I suppose I could use a strap to pull it on. I was looking at a Clarke CEW1000 mains powered impact wrench which is rated at 450 Nm for about £65, which I understand other forum members use without problems. Now I'm a torn as I like to "invest" is powerful, cordless, brightly coloured power tools :)

    @Wayne58 & @tzoykas - I assume using the impact wrench can be done single handed. Have you tried removing the sprocket side nut?
     
  19. Yes Steve, you can use it single handed no problem. However, I haven't tried it on the sprocket side nut but in all honestly, I seriously doubt it will have a problem. I unscrewed the wheel side nut, the rotor retaining screws (twice) and I also used it to drive 30 M10 12 inch wood screws to make a workbench. They went in the wood like it wasn't there. Noisy but effective. It's an all rounder, so I believe you will be very pleased with the investment. Considering that I did all that with a single battery and it still has some juice, I believe it's totally worth the money. It feels like it will outlast me.
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  20. Thanks for the prompt response. Looks like I'll be adding to my DeWalt collection very soon :)
     
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