Ducati advise you not to overhaul your eccentric due to safety reasons, however, I didn't fancy spending almost £500 on a new one and I like a challenge. There are 7 parts to the eccentric hub: - The body - 1 x double row ball bearing on the right side - 1 x circlip retaining double row ball bearing - 1 x needle roller bearing on the left side - 1 x dust seal for the needle roller bearing - 1 x bush that goes through the needle roller bearing - 1 x internal spacer separating the bearings As long as the bush, body and spacer are in decent condition then all you need to replace are the 2 x bearings and the seal. It's pretty simple. My bush had polish marks but nothing major. To strip the hub down do as follows: - Remove the circlip on the right side that retains the double row ball bearing. Circlip pliers needed. - Remove the oil seal which seals the needle bearing on the left side. Use a flat head to leverage it, be careful not to damage the shoulder of the bore. - Use a heat gun and heat the area around the double row ball bearing on the right side until can't touch it with your hands. - From the left side with the oil seal, use an implement which matches the diameter of the bush and drive it through. This will drive into the separating spacer which will in turn drive the double row ball bearing out. The spacer is unable to be removed at this point as it can only be installed/removed from the left. For me, the needle roller bearing on the left side also came out when removing the double row bearing which was a plus but may not happen for others. - If the needle roller bearing is still in situe heat the area around the bearing with a heat gun, again until you can't touch it with your hands. - From the right side, use a large flat head to chap it out, alternating around the circumference in order to make sure it comes out evenly, otherwise the bore may get damaged. The needle roller bearing and spacer can now be removed. My hub was in decent condition but still had minor corrosion where it met the hollow part at the rear of swingarm which was exposed to water ingress etc. I also noticed there was moisture staining/light surface corrosion on the inside so I cleaned it with gunk and rinsed it thoroughly. I then sprayed the inside with the VHT paint for added protection and masked off the bores which house the bearings. I got cracking results. There was some overspray on the bores so I dressed them with a new scourer you use for your dishes, going round the bores following the grain. I always do this when installing new bearings as it can remove small imperfections, again good results. The outside of the hub also needed some dressing. I then greased the complete inside of the hub to protect from moisture, especially the areas which had been affected before. Everything is ready to go back together again. The bearings for the hub are widely stated on forums to be Ducati specifics, however, that is nonsense and can be purchased at various places online, albeit they are pretty rare. I got mine from 123bearing which were by far the cheapest, however, the bearings are still expensive. - Doublerow ball bearing for right side - SKF BAH-0175, £88.96 Inc VAT - Needle roller bearing for left side - SKF RNA 4910 2RS, £45.90 Inc VAT - OEM dust seal for left side - 93010102A, £5.77 To re-assemble everything do as follows: - With the double row bearing, pull the inner 2 races outwards a small amount. This creates a gap where you can pack more grease in. Be careful not to pull them too far as this will cause the seals to tuck under the edge of the races which means they will not seal properly. Trust me, you don't want to have to try and get the lip of the seal back over the race. Next to impossible to do so without damaging it. Notice in image 13 how the seal has tucked under the race. Once done, close them back up - Put both bearings in the freezer over night to help shrink them for install - Starting with the right side, grease the bore and fill the circlip recess with grease too. Grease the whole double row bearing. - Place the new bearing inside the bore. Use the old bearing as a driver paying attention to keep the force being applied on the outer circumference. I usually use a block of wood across the old bearing first to get it started more uniformly. Drive it until it cant go any more. - The old bearing will now be stuck halfway in the bore, not ideal. Create 2 small cuts in the old bearing outer race directly across from each other which will let you chap it out with a flat head. Not much force is needed. - Re-grease the bore and bearing along with the circlip and re-install the circlip. Finish the right side by greasing the edge of the bore. - From the left side, grease the internal spacer completely and install it, placing it firmly against the double row ball bearing. - Grease the left hand bore and needle roller bearing completely and place it inside the bore. - Again, use the old bearing to drive the new bearing in until it's fully seated. Again the bearing will get stuck in half way but there is a lip on the outer race so you can chap it out easily but remember to do so evenly. - Re-grease the bore and seal and install the seal. - Grease the bush and re-install it Congratulations the bore is now like new.