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Removing Rear Wheel Nut

Discussion in 'Ducati General Discussion' started by duc996bp, Jan 25, 2018.

  1. Whats the correct way to remove the wheel nut? i.e Impact Gun or bloody long breaker bar? Currently I use a 3/4" drive 3ft breaker bar, and its still difficult, saw someone use an impact gun and made it look very easy, just wondered if there was a negative side to using such a device. Same applies to other nuts like the clutch nut, which is quite a high torque. They may make the job quick and easy, but is it right?
     
  2. I use an impact drver to loosen the main high torque nuts on all my Ducatis. You do need a specific impact driver socket however because over time a standard chrome vanadium socket can split. I make sure that the socket is well seated and stop the impact gun as soon as the nut has moved after which I use my ordinary socket set. I do not ever use the impact driver to tighten the high torque nuts so you still need an FOB sized torque wrench to do the rear wheel nut up. Andy
     
    #2 Android853sp, Jan 25, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2018
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  3. What ID do you use? What do the boys at RP use? Ingersoll Rand looks like a good make.
     
  4. it so easy, have a look...

     
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  5. That really looked so easy to remove, mine is so much more dificult.
     
  6. I use a DeWalt 18v, 360Nm cordless 1/2” drive. Mainly because all my cordless tools are DeWalt 18v. Guys at work use a windy tool. Andy
     
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  7. That things got some serious torque
     
  8. This week, changed chain and sprockets, front sprocket bolt and both rear 55mm nuts came off without even putting brakes on or putting in gear, just held rear tyre by hand and pressed button, had all three off inside of a minute. :upyeah:
     
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  9. I have never had a problem removing the rear nut on my 748 , it is tauqued up correctly and I can undo it using a braker bar without any extension, with one hand on the bar and the other on the rear brake.
    Steve
     
  10. Maybe i'm just weak!
     
  11. That's what I use. I usually soak the nut first in penetrating oil. They do tend to bind.
    Some people get the face of their socket machined to remove the chamfer because the wheel nut is so shallow and that gives you a better bite. I haven't bothered and touch wood I've never had one spin off.

    If that breaker is the same as mine it has a single rocker switch for forward and reverse so you have to make sure when cracking the nut off you press the switch the right way and don't do it up tighter by mistake.
     
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  12. Rattle gun to get it off. Torque wench to put it back on.
     
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  13. Just to add when I've put the wheel back on I've never had to go up as tight as is specified....the locking wire that goes round the nut I then put a tiny tie wrap through to hold it.
     
  14. Never had a problem with my nuts!
     
  15. Well...someone had to...
     
  16. my 996 has started to 'challenge' me on a regular basis that has ended up with 2 bent breaker bars...
    on tip to make sure there is a film of grease between the nut and washer surface to reduce stiction when trying to remove the rear nut...

    I have this job on the to do list when I get home...
     
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  17. Can anyone provide any recommendations for the 55mm 12pt socket? About to buy one myself so want a good quality unit. From memory the Ducati one is about £75 but on the net there other options going down to about £25.
     
  18. Draper Expert on Amazon is what I bought last... its also a case of which drive 1/2 or 3/4 inch?
     
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