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Rusted Exhaust Nut Removal

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by West Cork Paul, Mar 26, 2020.

  1. It might help if you cut the rusty threads off level with the nut heads.
     
  2. Freudian slip. Wishful thinking. :no_mouth:
     
  3. Get back in your own exile :eyes:
     
  4. Nut Splitter.
     
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  5. Just an amalgamation of experiences - not all in the same vehicle! ;)

    Anyone who’s worked on old cars and bikes can relate i’m sure!

    They always demand a blood sacrifice!
     
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  6. Auto correct o_O
     
  7. I’d have to replace the stud then as well as the nut, which means having to get the stud out of the head. I can foresee a whole world of pain with that :(
     
  8. Pivot done dude ... piece of piss really only took 6 months...
     
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  9. Paul, don't touch it mate, that's gonna go real bad, i'm quiet next week, bring it over, £45 ph for failure. considerably more for success. and I haven't been beaten ever. :upyeah:
    plenty good advice there btw. having a dremil is always good too. cutting flush with the nut is often a wise thing to do to save you having to run a nut up a rotten thread if you haven't got heat. there will be plenty stud left once you have removed the exhaust to enable you to remove it.
     
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  10. Hmm:thinkingface: are the ferries still running? Could it be classed as essential travel?its nice and rural where you are, I could maintain my physical distancing:). The idea is growing. It’s such a :sun::sun::sun: day here as well, I fancy a ride out. :D

    If SWMBO won’t let me and I have to resort to other tactics I will follow yours, and others, advice and apply a blow torch to my nuts:eek:
     
  11. It will save having to turn the nut over all that rust and the nut will still go back on the threads left.
     
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  12. Thats why I would use a nut splitter, then a wire brush and a die to clean up the threads.
     
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  13. Does anyone else get a nasty twinge every time someone mentions Nut Splitter? o_O
     
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  14. That seems like quite a good idea ...
    .... even welding a bit of scrap to the end of the stud might work .

    It would give something solid to grip on , and there's enough spare threads
    on the stud to cut it off later .
    Plus the whole job would get a good "heat shock "

    Just a thought .... I'm probably missing something obvious .... :)
     
  15. Welding is on my 'learn to do' list, but not got round to it yet:(
     
  16. Well, after giving my nuts a good soaking each day for several days, after cutting my stud down, after applying a blow torch to my nuts I can tell you it’s extremely painful :eek:. Still it passes the time in lockdown:confused:.

    Anyway, eventually they both came out. The nut is firmly seized to the stud on each one and both studs eventually came out of the head.

    So, what to replace them with? The same or can I get s/steel ones in order to prevent it reoccurring?

    69A2C4A4-0995-43CC-A143-35A6FA745C2D.jpeg 471F426C-2CD8-4765-92F3-0821EA463BEF.jpeg 4558F0C1-D450-489A-9E74-30E03D2CFDF5.jpeg
     
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  17. Cheers Steve:upyeah:.
    An auxiliary question is could I just use a s’steel bolt of the right size? Why does it have to be a stud? I’ve a selection box of s/steel cap bolts on hand.
     
  18. It just so happens I was researching Titanium fasteners last night - and on the same site - stainless studs.

    Pricing on the site is very good - especially if you know the size you need rather than going for the bike specific kit’s.

    https://www.racefasteners.co.uk/stainless-manifold-studs
     
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  19. Steel bolts direct onto Ali head not a good idea, there's a fair chance the over time they would wreck the threads in the head. Better choice I would think is if you can find or make some stainless studs which can be fitted permanently and the use nuts as before.
     
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