S4 Monster 916 Won't Start; Immobiliser?

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by RichyThompson, Apr 22, 2019.

  1. My S4 was running perfectly and then wouldn't start after stopping on a run in the Yorkshire Dales...Had to hike out, no fun!

    Recovered it now and checking it out, one thing seems odd so hopefully someone can confirm for me if this might be the issue;

    Immobiliser light blinking on and off....On turning the key in the ignition the light flashes twice and you can hear the fuel pump prime, then the light goes out for about 2 seconds and then comes back on solidly.

    Checked the manual and it states that if the immobiliser light stays on the owner needs to try another key and if that dent work, contact Ducati.

    Does this sound like I should get the Immobiliser deleted?
     
  2. The immobiliser light flashing twice indicates a key or antenna failure. Most likely the connector from the antenna into the immobiliser is dirty/corroded or the antenna has dropped down in the housing making it further from the key.
    Having the immobiliser function disabled will save you that problem in future.
     
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  3. Thanks Derek, That confirms my gut feeling! I'll contact the nice chap on here that does Immobiliser deletes!
     
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  4. You can check my old post if you search Monster S4 Will Not Start. Is yours the 2001 with separate immobiliser and ecu? That is, no clocks involved.
    I'm currently having issues with an ST4S immobiliser. Happy days are here again!
     
  5. You really put some effort into finding that fault! Been through this with an early Multistrada but couldn't remember the exact symptoms. Yeas its an early one I believe the immobiliser is independent of the clocks
     
  6. Yes it did go on a bit. Let us know how you get on.
     
  7. Here am where I am at. Had the immobiliser deleted from the ECU by skilled chap on here. Prior to delete; key in and turned- eco flashed twice, delay then came on solidly, fuel pump activates, engine turned over on starter but didn't fire.

    After ECU delete exactly the same, except have the odd cough like its tried to start. Have a good spark at the plug, so wondering if something kills the fuel to the injection system after the pump?

    And just so I understand things right, what does the immobiliser change to stop the engine being started? Mine cranked over before the delete, should have mentioned that above.
     
  8. As far as I can tell the immobiliser kills the sparks, and probably the injection but doesn't stop it cranking. If it cranks and you have sparks then you should also have operative injectors.
    After initial switch on the pump, coil and injectors are only active as long as the engine is turning and the ECU gets a signal from the crank sensor which it uses to time the sparks and injectors and keep the pump running but I can't see it making sparks without doing the other things.
     
  9. Thanks Derek. I wonder if I might have an issue in the tank, I read of split hoses causing striating problems. Regarding the 2 hoses clamped to
    spigots on the tank, I'm assuming one hose is fuel supplied out from the pump and that is working as petrol pumps out fine and the other pipe is a fuel return?
     
  10. Had a sudden thought. Before the ride when my S4 broke down, I topped up with fuel from a can which I now think had 40-1 petrol/ Stihl chainsaw 2 stroke oil in it. I have flushed the tank through, but perhaps the oil mix has blocked the injectors?
     
  11. Yes, the pump has a gauze strainer to keep out grit and pumps fuel through the filter to injectors. Excess fuel is returned to the tank via the regulator, mounted in the flange, which maintains pressure.
    So the pressure side could have burst inside the tank, the regulator is not holding pressure, or the injectors aren't working.
     
  12. I wouldn't have thought that a 40:1 mix would block them but you never know.
     
  13. I can loan you my 'Redneck' homemade injector cleaning rig. Lets you run carb cleaner through whilst the injector fires. The injectors need removing.
     
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  14. Thanks Chrisw guess I need to pull them and see if they are spraying anything first. I still think this is an electrical issue. Is there any indications on the maps when you pull them from the ecu's that there is a problem lurking?
     
  15. . My Power comander green fuel light is pulsing appropriately as I crank, making me think the ecu is telling the pump and injectors to work. Whats the best way to check the fuel pump and pressure etc?
     
  16. Pull the injectors and see if they spray properly.
     
  17. Good rainy day for taking your bike apart! Back at square one because when I originally checked for a spark, I did see one on the rear/top plug and thought I was good. Turns out all I have is one spark on that cylinder every ten or so attempts at starting and no spark on the front one at all.

    First things first: Took off the air box and there is blackbox attached to it which is the immobiliser? With the Immobiliser delete carried out on the ECU by Chrisw, I'm guessing it can be unplugged and scrapped together with the chip reader? The annoying immobiliser flashing light on the rev counter goes away if I unplug it. And I still have my one spark!

    Took out an injector and there is fuel under pressure getting to the throttle body with ignition on which makes me worry less about anything going wrong with the pipes in the tank. Need to read up and find out how you test the injector.

    Noticed a little spigot on the fuel regulator that didn't have a pipe attached, looks like a breather? Seems to have lost its pipe.
     
  18. The little spigot on the regulator has no pipe attached, it vents to the atmosphere. JPdiag should enable you to test the injectors and sparks.
     
  19. Hmm, got leads, but have to get a windows PC up and running, I'm a Mac guy.

    Early on in the other S4 no start thread, someone says a bad starter motor can present similar issues
     
  20. I'm a Mac guy too but I have a Netbook with Windows to run diagnostics. I also use ScanM5X on my Android phone which is very useful and worth looking at if you have suitable phone.
    Bad starters have been known to draw excess current, reducing the voltage available to the ECU resulting in no or intermittent sparks while it is cranking. With the plugs out, put the bike in gear and switch on the ignition. The turn the back wheel to turn the engine. While it is turning check for a regular spark. If there is then there is a good chance that the starter is faulty.
     
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