So the turning of the rear wheel in gear revealed that the fuel pump was firing off appropriately but there are no sparks at the plugs. I think I can smell fuel at the injectors. On the starter button there is one or two initial sparks in the first second of cranking at the rear cylinder, front has no spark. Checked earths, fuses, pulled all connecters apart and cleaned them, put back together. Reading that other S4 thread I'm wondering if I bought the same bike (joke! ) There is a key mismatch and the ECU is 2007 and the rectifier was swapped in 2011 so someone has has similar issues in the past.
Well if the pump turns on and the injectors are firing when you turn the back wheel then the crank sensor must be ok so the lack of sparks is strange. I think you need to get in touch with @chrisw about a loan ECU.
You might want to try changing the brushes in your starter motor.Electrex sell a brush set if they are worn they drag a lot of power leaving nothing for the ECU
. In my ignorance, I had left the immobiliser box plugged in and attached. Chrisw messaged me to say it should be removed. Done that now, but wondering if leaving it in place meant that on my first attempt to start after fitting the ECU with immobiliser deleted. could have re-coded the ECU to immobilise but checked with ChrisW and he says not. Checked the sparks again, Now Have one spark per 10 second cranking session at the back and two at the front where previously there was non. Lots of fuel mist coming through the plug holes.. The randomness of this makes me wonder if what Higgy says below might be a factor! Starting has always been sluggish so I guess it won't hurt to take the starter to pieces.
When trying to get my bike sorted this winter, I found I could get it to start by cranking at full throttle, which enabled it to crank faster. Fitting one of Exiges cable kits was what finally got it working properly again after all sorts of red herrings, twists and turns. That and a TPS reset...
Ordered a cable kit, figured its an upgrade that needs doing, the old girl has always been a bit slow turning over despite a new battery.
Not gonna lie, I'm enjoying the challenge and also the finding out of how the bike works and all the known faults for the period it was made. Fitted the starter cable upgrade promoted on this site and its a nice bit of kit. The original cables are poor in comparison, new cables haven't solved the non starting issue. Thinking of trying to future proof the bike as I go, by renewing bits. My gut feeling is the ECU has been fried due to a dodgy regulator/rectum fryer, no logic behind that other than seeing it has a non standard recti/reg has a 2007 eco and a mismatch of keys for fuel, seat and ignition. The battery (new last year) hasn't stayed charged in use for long. Don't want to fry another ECU so guess a new Regulator/Rectifier makes sense. I'm dealing with retro stuff here, old posts mention using a triumph one plus conversion loom. Prices seem to vary from £20-£100, any recommendations?
Replacing the crank position sensor was another step on the way to full health on my 999. It cost £25.00 and wasn’t difficult to fit, although on my bike it did involve removing the water pump housing and thus draining the coolant.
I had a very similar problem on my 1098 I spent a lot on the smaller bits, CPS coils, relays new Battery. Did a thread on here about it You are now at the point where to solve it will cost bigger money New ECU or Sprag You need to find away to try and bump start it. make sure everything is back together and connected as it should be or you willbe wastig your time A couple of strong fit mates to push start or better still get it to the top of a decent hill. You need to get a fair bit of speed up and use 2nd or 3rd gear. If it starts you need a new Sprag clutch
First thing I did was try and bump it off down a very long hill and cursed the fact I had to walk home up the same hill when it wouldn't start.
Replaced the aerial several times over the years on my 2004 monster 1000. They just stop working for some unknown reason which also happened twice on my 1098. Anyway from memory after switch on the pump primes, clock sweeps and eventually if immobiliser fault detected the LED stays illuminated. It totally disables the engine and won’t even attempt to crank so the fact yours is cranking is a bit odd. Maybe the S4 is different but that’s my experience of my monster and 1098.
I think they must be different, I had an early Multistrada with an immobiliser issue and that wouldn't crank.
Bought another ECU on eBay from Belgium, its on its way. It seems reasonable money, as long as it works! Took the heat sink off my original ecu and there appears to be a discolouration on the shiny metal panel in one small area near the corner. Maybe that's the point where its earth is connected inside or maybe that's where it got fried internally, any guesses? Tempted to open it up, the repair dudes that charge £££s talk about "milling" to open them up, I.m guessing that means simply drilling out the four brass ferrules at the corners? I have a friend who is very good at mending electronics so it would be fun to see if he can mend ecu hardware? Getting ahead of myself as I am not sure it is faulty yet...
Don’t be tempted to open up the ECU. It actually opens up by breaking the two plastic rivets on the plastic casing and then splitting the plastic case at the visible join line. If you want to see what is inside go to Antonye’s Avanti Race Parts website. Once open you will find multiple, easily damage fine wires pressing onto contacts and the whole thing encased in a gel like substance. http://www.avantiraceparts.co.uk/gallery.php?id=26&gid=6&page=1
I opened up a dead one just for a look. Just as well it was dead because it was immediately buggered as all the fine wires Chris mentions broke.
Ok, I do have a history of taking things apart and not getting them back together so I'll leave it well alone! Its pretty worrying that these ECUs seem to have a high failure rate, I was hoping my S4 would make it to classic status but the ECU will end up being worth more than the bike at this rate.
Cue Laurel and Hardy Music.... Exact match s/h Ebay ECU arrived and it was stated the Immobiliser had been deleted, the engine doesn't run on that either. So either new ECU is fault as well, and is displaying the same symptoms or the fault lies elsewhere. Have the engine spinning over nicely on the new starter leads and just one spark per cylinder every cranking session. Tank cleaned out, new filter, . Not sure how to achieve this, taken them out and sprayed carb cleaner at them. [QUOTE="Derek, post: 1352403, member: 23749" I also use ScanM5X on my Android phone which is very useful and worth looking at if you have suitable phone. [/QUOTE] . Don't have an android device, but might have to get one...
