1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

899 Shattered 899 Dash Screen

Discussion in 'Panigale' started by DRR117, Mar 11, 2019.

  1. Oh shit! I'm at Snetterton 23rd June. I hope the same milk float doesn't hit me from behind, as it did you! Dave
     
  2. In case anyone has a cracked screen or finds this from Google:

    I got one of those aliexpress dash cases a while back, finally got round to doing it. It looked accurate enough so I stripped the plastics and got to the dash, prising the oem case off isn’t easy as it’s well bonded, main worry was damaging the pcb/lcd inside but it finally popped off, under the sticker is 5 screws holding it to the back case, these appear to be torx T6.5 because the 6 is just too small and rhe 7 too big. A 1.5mm Allen key just about did the job. Screwed it and glued it, seems to be working still. Finally crack free, now to get these bloody plastics back on
    8BF143AA-EFF4-46A9-B027-637A40123AF5.jpeg ECB296A7-C24B-4D19-9D45-9FECB5EC3604.jpeg 02E82658-F669-41EB-AB50-80D87E5C2482.jpeg 53C78903-4C99-42A8-B9E4-AA85621EF58D.jpeg 6CC639F0-56F7-4BF6-806A-07FD21688420.jpeg
     
    • Like Like x 7
    • Useful Useful x 4

  3. Hi. I appreciate it was a while ago you posted this link but I’m just going through this same process and appreciate the info and photos.
    Did YOU actually repair yours (are they your photos and words) or as the intro says were they taken ‘from Google’? what is described as the ‘sticker’, is that the surround to the actual screen (that covers the 5 screws?) and does it just peel off as a separate item? (It’s not connected by any wire/cable?)
    Many thanks :punch::upyeah:
     
  4. Hi, yep those are my genuine photos and handiwork, been fine since I did the swap touch wood. The Google bit was for anyone coming here via a Google search not that any of the info came from Google if you see what I mean.

    The black surround is just stuck on, the LEDs behind light up behind the coloured filters, no wires attaching it. Caveat being mine is an 899 and there’s a minuscule chance an 1199 would be different but I doubt it.
    Those screws are a bastard, no idea what they are. I had to drill one out as the head stripped.
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  5. massive thanks for getting back so quickly! I’m doing it today so that’s really helpful :punch:
    (Yeh it’s my first Ducati in over 44years and 80+ bikes ownership, I’ve stripped and rebuilt most of them and it’s really interesting to see how different manufacturers design and built their bikes. Obviously all have good points and bad points. Ducati really surprise me with all their tiny screws threads and heads (like on the windscreen, and mirror mounting screws) and accessibility (like the bottom 2 screws on the windscreen) and to get at certain parts and remove like 10 covers or fairings before you can get headlights out. But hey, that’s part of the joys of Ducati ownership I guess, like the clocks once you’ve done once it’s SO much easier and quicker the next time! I’m sure there’ll be even worse challenges yet to come :rolleyes:
    As for that dash/speedo, to see SOOOO many people suffering with ‘spontaneous cracking’ is insane! It’s been going on since 848/1098 days, right through the 859/199/1299 to the V4 as well :astonished: 15+ years and probably thousands of dashes returned worldwide and Ducati still haven’t changed to better materials or designed it differently :scream: For a lot of people who can’t get it done under warranty or don’t have the tools/skills to repair it like us, it’s a really expensive fix or replacement! There you go, whinge over :weary_face::D:upyeah:
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  6. Hi again. I got the sticker off and the 5 screws (T7) out the c/board is still a bit reluctant to come out, feels like there’s resistance here at this big plug/nut thing on the back. Any ideas? Cheers BA1E00CB-4FD3-4808-93AE-B86155038126.jpeg

    90AFEA2B-39D6-47BC-BA92-5AF9CE130A96.jpeg
     
    • Like Like x 1
  7. Looks like an air vent, probably for the barometric pressure sensor.
     
  8. the bung in the corner doesn’t seem to be for anything in this set up, I guess the plastics were moulded for various fitting options and only the one getting used is used, there’s nothing behind it on the main internal unit that lines up. I ignored it and no issues
     
  9. Thanks :upyeah:
     
  10. Thanks again, still seems a lot of resistance to get the whole c/b out. :confused:it’s so frustrating, I’m within touching distance o_O
     
  11. Trying to think back, can’t remember if there were any of those clips moulded into the plastic to prise apart before it dropped out. Seem to recall it took some finessing to get off the back but can’t remember exactly unfortunately. Perhaps that bung/screw does something on models other than the 899 but it was redundant on mine
     
  12. Got it! :upyeah: Was a bit tight on those 4 white pins that locate the white surround and circuit board into the back case. Result :cool:

    355B2953-502F-4FB9-BA83-E460DD24D0B0.jpeg
     
    • Like Like x 6
  13. Nice one, putting it all back is a lot easier. Until you get to those bastard fairings at least
     
  14. Cheers again for your help and tips, much appreciated! Knowing there were 5 screws under that front sticker was the key, lifting the sticker (with heat/hairdryer and then a bit of ‘jiggery-pokery’ and out it popped :upyeah:. The dash is all back together now, with Sikaflex, top job!
    I’m dreading getting all the fairings back on (particularly the big one around the rads), but hey, it’s all just a challenge ;)
     
    • Like Like x 2
  15. Just remember to keep an eye on the road instead of staring at the gloriously crack free dash ;)
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  16. What is the best sealant to use to put the new case back together? I have a tube of black Threebond. Would that work?
     
  17. 5350DE16-AF7E-4950-8845-62844871B9CF.jpeg 7BFFECB5-F2C5-4EB2-99CE-0BB350D1B00E.jpeg 055A2D0C-7864-40D2-9292-D060F26F7900.jpeg
    That Threebond will probably/possibly work but I did a bit of research, read numerous reviews and I used Sikaflex 291i, black. It’s used extensively in the boat building and boat repair world, it’s adhesive, flexible and waterproof so ticks all the boxes. Worked perfectly :upyeah:

    ps. I nipped the end of the nozzle (heat with hairdryer or heat gun, nip with pliers and let it cool) to make it narrow and could fit down the groove of the back case, before pressing on the top clear screen. Also made a yellow mark near the end so I knew I was going to full depth).
    Tip! Put some protection over the coloured dash so you don’t get the sealant on your dash.

    7BFFECB5-F2C5-4EB2-99CE-0BB350D1B00E.jpeg

    055A2D0C-7864-40D2-9292-D060F26F7900.jpeg
     
    #37 Dastardly Dave, Apr 28, 2022
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 28, 2022
    • Useful Useful x 2
  18. Thank you so much
     
    • Like Like x 1
  19. hi dastard

    i have to do this soon, can't read EBC/DTC numbers now, dont think its a MOT fail but annoying

    im dreading the faff of getting it off

    is it possible to use just the new screen and bond it straight onto the old back??

    cheers
     
  20. Must be a market to perform this task for people.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
Do Not Sell My Personal Information