It's actually the other way round, but I think I know what you meant. The early onset of wear for that engine and nearly always the front cylinder, will result in tell-tale wear not only when you measure the piston, but by visible wearing through of the nikasil face.
Bit late to answer your questions but I use a diamond flat hone for the shims to keep them flat. That spring clip does easily deform from removal you can bend it back easy enough. I am inclined to agree with the piston slap, as the valve make some noise but if they are close to acceptable tolerance it sounds like chatter.
Cheers. I manage on lubricated high quality emery cloth (200 grit, I seem to remember) over a piece of faced steel block, and finished with a new norton fine stone. Checked with micrometer all round circumference, seemed fine. Took about 200 revolutions by hand to remove 0.1mm. From time to time, I would spin to turn the shim in my three holding fingers, as I swept it round in a circular wrist motion, with only slight, even pressure on fingers.
It's interesting. Today I warmed her up well and took a 5 mile trip. Desmoquatro was right about the valve clearance noise - it snot the cause - though I'm pleased with the improvement. Old Rider makes an interesting point about the alternator nut and leaning: I still find noise increases at idle when leaning the bike to my left -even not onto the stand, and quietens when straightening the bike. Another thing which leads me to me suspect offending noise not piston slap is the way the noise pings dies away... AND seems to emanate more from the left side... (SEEMS TO!) So, Ill pull the alternator cover and examine flywheel and starter gear before any barrel inspection, as well as renew the cam thrust washer.... And I'll report back when all's done. (-: thanks to all, for your kind interest. John
I hope it is the alternator nut because that would be an easy fix. I don't think mine sounded like your video though, nothing like as metallic.
Too right. I hear what you say about the noise, so of cause I'm cautious... though perhaps mine is simply worse than yours - given that its how I received the bike, not as a developing fault. Looking around to see if I have bits around to make up a puller... in between being a 'busy working mum', of course. At least, it'll rule out chance of a truly flying wheel! I'll also look closer at the camshaft there, to double check - perhaps I missed the end float somehow.
Having removed the alternator cover, I found the alternator nut good and tight. No play of the flywheel assembly on the shaft. The nut was so tight, I couldn't remove the nut by applying pressure on the brake, locking the wheel and engaging high gear; the clutch seemed to give first.... or was it the starter sprag... not sure. So, at this time I'm not able to inspect the starter idle gear, or the condition of the woodruff key...not sure if starter gear could be responsible or not. There is some play when twisting the starter gear, but that is held by a circlip - probably normal. The starter idle gear has about 1mm of play at its circumference when twisting it on the shaft, but only when in neutral. Not sure if this is to be expected or not. I' ve re-examined the camshaft thrust washer, camshaft has no excessive float that I could determine, and the thrust washer appears in good condition I could look further into the tacho drive somehow; though a cursory inspection by removing the cover, and all seems in fine condition, also the sound doesn't seem to emanate from that point. Tacho works fine. So, perhaps best to continue by suspecting its all down to piston slap, and remove the barrel in the not too distant future.
Shame it wasn't the nut. Let's hope it's something simple... Drop the oil and see if you have excess metal in there??
Yes, I just dropped the clean oil I had put in just 30 miles ago. No excess metal in there. I do have a strainer to get out (with a heat gun and little prying tools), which had detached from the retaining nut; I wonder even if that causes the sound, but no, I don't think so.
have you tried put a long screw driver to your ear and on the area of the engine or use a mechanics stethoscope it might help locate problem before stripping down.
Theres only so much you can get from the video, it would be a lot easier to hear it in person. What is being described certainly sounds like piston slap, but you will not know until its got the head off. Thats the logical next step.
I tried a screwdriver, not a stethoscope: would you recommend one? I always found a screwdriver satisfactory before, but maybe a steth would help here. When I put my ear to the tool, moving it from place to place, what I hear is an enhanced internal sounds of moving parts, but not enhanced & more localised 'ringing' . That seems to come more when standing aside, ear away. I keep listening. I wanted to rule out things before a strip down, being new (1 year now) to ducati. It possibly is ringing predominantly through the barrels and thereon up to the head. I agree, a video isn't the same as hearing it in person, and I bet some of you could nail it pretty quickly if you could hear it live. Thanks, John
I wonder if it's missing a gudgeon pin clrclip? Maybe on the alternator/left side. As said by others it does sound like piston slap though.
PS. IN between attacking this problem, I love riding the bike. I recently rebuilt the carbs with consideration for matched size main jets, new needle jets, o rings, needles, and it is crisp and neat running now, starting on the button, with carbs balanced too.
I strongly suspected a gudgeon pin, partly due to the sound and partly due to the observation off amplified sound at idle, when leaning. Now, I'm less sure, of course. (-: We shall have to see! ( which reminds me, "what the heart doesn't know the eyes can't see") John
