+1. Solid feel would be too thick a pack? Strange if all you have done is change the retainer ring - but stranger things have happened!
I could be wrong it has been known I remember getting SS springs to replace the std set on my 1098 and when they were fitted the clutch was really heavy (not a slipper). I think there is a difference between the springs on the older bikes and the 1098. Just saying its worth asking the question. Again I could be talking complete bollocks but if 2242s idea of backing off the screws worked, could you not establish how many turns and get longer cap screws to install. Personally I wouldn't have screws retaining the pressure plate that were loose Loctite or not, but that's just my personal choice. It doesn't take a rocket scienctist to work out what's going to happen if even one of these little buggers work loose Puts on flame proof suit and fingers in ears, while waiting for replies John
Have you tried the new springs with the old standard collars instead of the new retainer ring? Ducati Dry Clutch Springs & Retainer (Alloy) | eBay Are there any compression marks on the inside of the ring where it has been hitting your pressure plate?
Not all stainless springs are junk ... some take the time to spec the right materials and spring rates to ensure they are a like-for-like swap!
Got it! (methinks...) The retainer plate would be thicker than your old spring caps, hence shorter springs! If you are looking to use the springs with your old caps you will need the springs designed for this, like in the link I posted?
A shameless plug perhaps, but I have a set of stainless springs on my non slipper 748. Got them from Avanti race parts (antonye on thi site) and they work fine, you would'nt tell the difference between these and the stock spring in operation. But they look much better, particularly with an open clutch set up. Antonye you are as ever being polite and modest- yours work mate.
KAABOOM !!! iirc the bolts only need to be tightened to 8nm or was it 25 , hmm I think it's 8nm which is only just nipped up, the pressure of the springs against them is enough to keep them there, so backed off slightly with threadlock would be fine, I wouldnt advise to anyone who wasnt happy to do that, even if I have and do.
i used Oberon clutch spings on the monster s2r1000 with a Rizoma star plate and caps and the clutch worked well i needed to the the OEM rubber clutch cover gasket and little brass spacers as the tolerances from the caps to the inside of oberon open clutch cover were very tight indeed and would have have caught and torn the cloth or cover to bits without it. rizoma clutch cover had loads of room
yep it is very light 6 or 8 nm from memeory. dont use thread lock, im pretty sure in my service manual it says to use engine oil on these bolts to ensure they dont seize
I didn't say horse them up in my reply. Mine are nipped up but I didn't use a torque wrench. All I'm saying is if they were backed out a bit then they would be loose, Ok spring pressure MAY keep them in, (Edit - and you won't have 8Nm on the screw if it's loose). I'm not an ace mechanic and I'll take Peter's word for it that Loctite will work. I still wouldn't even think about it given the price of replacing fasteners compared with the collateral damage done if they work loose I'll get my coat
yep I've used medium locktite with no probs on them before , and I have to say that I dont bother now as I'm always checking the plates . It would have to be an unusual set of circumstances for all you bolts to work loose and you not notice. If you run the std clutch cover they would scour the inside .
Just a quick note, when I spoke to the Oberon chap at the NEC he has two sets of SS springs, one for the 1098 and the other for the 1198. He showed me them both and they where different guage ie thickness and slightly different lengths so just make sure you get the right ones. Also I guess mixing springs and caps from different people may not be compatible??
Cranker is on the money here. You cannot just back the clutch spring screws off a bit to stop them becoming coil bound. The Ducati Workshop Manual says "insert a spring and cap in each hole and secure the screws to the specified torque". The manual then goes on to omit the torque setting but I know it is low and would expect it to be l0 Nm or less. The length of the clutch spring should not be less than 36.5mm. A couple of months back I did an 850 mile trip to Luxembourg and back in three days, two up with only four clutch springs installed. The last 200 miles it was absolutely rodding it down and I have an open clutch cover. No problems whatsoever.
Its a two finger (No not those two, just calm down a bit) jobbie on the allen key to get an acceptable torque on the clutch screw.
There seems to be a lot of rubbish going on in this thread, so I thought I'd type up some notes so that you can figure out what is going wrong for yourself... There are 4 components which come in to play when setting up the clutch: 1. Clutch stack height 2. Clutch pressure plate design 3. Spring length* 4. Spring Cap height * the spring tension also has an effect, but only in how "heavy" the clutch feels and how much force it applies to keep the clutch pack together and stop the pack from slipping. We can ignore this for now... The way the clutch works is that a clutch pack (plates) are compressed together via springs which are secured in place by spring caps. The six clutch posts in the centre hub are where you bolt the springs and caps into. The springs push down onto the pressure plate which in turn compresses the plates together and provides the drive from the engine to the transmission. If you look at a cross section of the clutch, you will see where all the tolerances, or critical measurements, occur: A = Clutch Stack Height B = Pressure Plate Depth C = Post Height D = Spring Cap Depth E = Spring Height If you change one component in this setup, you can affect more than one of these measurements. For example, if you change the Spring Cap (green) and it has a different (shallower) depth (D), then it means that the spring will be compressed more and the spring height (E) will decrease. This could lead to the clutch being coil bound and not able to expand (engage) when the lever is pulled in because the springs cannot compress further. Similarly if you fit caps with a greater depth then the springs may not be under enough tension which can lead to the clutch slipping. Having a pressure plate (thick blue line) with a different depth compared to standard (B) will have a similar effect because you can increase or decrease the effective spring height (E) and once again lead to coil bound problems, or a slipping clutch through not enough tension. You can get round some of these problems with the suggestions above. If your spring caps are too shallow then you can fit washers/spacers between the clutch post and spring cap to bring the effective height (E) back to the correct dimension. If you clutch pressure plate is thicker then you can use shallower spring caps... and so on. In summary, there is not one solution to all clutch problems because there are a lot of variables in play, but the most common issue, especially with a locked/solid clutch (after you've checked the slave cylinder has been bled and clutch plates are seated correctly!) will be that the springs are coil bound and you will need to get the effective spring height (E) back to the correct size. HTH.
so if all the measurements are variable depending on the components, it's trial and error, no wonder they break down! if none of the components have changed, is the spring height standard or is the torque figure wrong as well
