Been out on two rides this morning, testing various things, I ended up adjusting the throttle cables. Will update later, out with the family atm. cheers
So first test ride, I re secured the fast idle in a way that the idle stays at 2k, still cut out when the clutch was closed. I noticed that moving the throttle past the closed would start to drop the revs slightly, I fully screwed in the close cable adjustment and fully unscrewed the open throttle cable adjustment, I also should note I fully closed the air bleed screws on the throttle bodies aswell. The bike ran well on the second ride, it stalled twice on the ride but I had about 20 stops, I can get it to stay alive all the time provided I apply a little throttle when closing the clutch. @Cream_Revenge looks like the cables were a major factor. how the cables are now Fast idle temp bodge the bike ran flawlessly when going, I forgot how good these bikes are to ride.
So rode the bike to work today, stalling more than the last ride, I could hear some sputtering from the horizontal cylinder. After some reading I’m going to change the spark plugs and see if that has an effect.
I had an error code when I first got the bike powered up, I swapped the horizontal coil with a spare and the error went. I will check the loom side connection though. cheers
After work today I managed to fit new plugs and swap out the air filters for some clean ones, bike is running better over all but still stalling when pulling the clutch fully in. It’s more manageable (or I’m getting used to it) holding the throttle slightly open when I come to a stop, after a few seconds I can let off and she will idle herself( still got the fast idle slightly on) Next port of call is the TPS reset, can this be done in isolation or has to be in conjunction with other things? cheers
So a little update I connected the laptop up to the bike and booted up jpdiag, the TPS was showing a position of 1.3 when fully closed(so there’s my low idle issue). I taped the fast idle to the frame again so that the throttle position was at a consistent 3.7(I will adjust inside the air box when I have time to strip the bike down). I took her for a spin, nice consistent idle and didn’t cut out when staying in first, but as soon as I go up the gears then back down(holding the clutch in) she cuts out. I’m at a loss at the moment....
1.3 is the correct setting for the TPS. Do not adjust the throttle bodies manually as these have been set at the factory. Your issue is with something else. Correct CO setting Throttle body balancing Timing slightly out Amongst possible causes
Ok thanks for the info, I thought the TPS was supposed to be higher. I will check the CO values later tonight, and read up on balancing the throttles. I will try doing the belts if the above fails. Cheers
You need a gas analyser to read the CO levels. The various diagnostic software cannot read the CO level. The numbers are just arbitrary. If you are using JPDiag then you can use trial and error to set the CO. You are trying to achieve the highest idle rpm you can. JPDiag allows you to test the change before committing within 5 secs. If you have a gas analyser then you want to be looking for a CO level between 4 and 4.5%.
I just had a little play, I increased the co setting in jpdiag to the upper limit stated in the 749s example, I did this in conjunction with two full turns on the air bleed screws. This took my idle up from 850-900 to 1200-1250, she idles nicely and runs nicely when going. Still cuts out when clutch is pulled in, I monitored it abit more and the revs drop normally until they get to 2k, then it cuts out.
After everything you've done so far, it sounds as if it could be that the clutch isn't fully disengaging, hence stalling as you come to a stop. Have you tried checking the problem on a rear paddock stand? You'll see whether the rear wheel continues to spin with the clutch pulled all the way (ignore a little clutch drag) but if the rear wheel is still being driven by the engine, it will stall.
Gave it a try, wheel stops. I’ve got some free time on Monday, so I’m going to swap out the air box/ throttle bodies from my other 749. I know that everything in there is working, so can rule out(and get the tedious stripdown out of the way) the components in there.
@Borgo Panigale Didn’t stall on the stand once warmed up. I had some time today so I swapped out the air box with my spare, once I reset the TPS and re did the co settings and bleed screws she didn’t stall!(still some fine tuning to be done) However when I adjusted the lever span on the clutch the bike started to stall again(intermittently). Currently have it in a sweet spot, middle of the span. Looks like you were right! Cheers.
