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749 Stalling When Clutch Is Pulled In

Discussion in '749 / 999' started by Nostromo, May 1, 2021.

  1. Yes. On the 749, the balance is mechanically set. Air bleed screws are used to balance and also control idle speed. Richen (screw in) them up to decrease, weaken (screw out) to increase. Get it idling first, balance, then reduce the idle while maintaining the balance. You should really/ideally do this with an exhaust analyser hooked up to and use the main trim value to get the mixture correct though.
    TPS is a diagnostic reset. The TPS isn't adjustable on 749/999. Again, the throttle stop is preset at the correct angle. A reset confirms to ECU the throttles are in the closed position. If the throttle stop has been moved/adjusted and reset performed, you're in a world of pain getting it back to what it should be but it is possible. Probably not a DIY job though.
    The latter, is one of the main reasons we see idling issues. Stop screws get adjusted then a TPS reset is done. After that, the ECU has no idea where the butterflies are and the problems grow.
     
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  2. Thanks Nelly! I'm going to give this a try tonight.
     
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  3. Needles are just going crazy, leak in the vacuum system?
     
  4. What gauges are they? Most need to have dampers in the pipes?
     
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  5. Cheap Amazon set image.jpg
     
  6. Fitted the little plastic dampers, needles steady but low pressure when set evenly. C507BC1D-F0E1-4144-B52A-B3105207D07B.jpeg then with the horizontal bleed all the way closed 92D5DC01-E2B5-468A-A07D-8B552ACB22BC.jpeg

    valve check in order?
     
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  7. After doing some reading, I’m going to check the intake manifolds and try the set I have spare from my other project. If I’m still getting a low reading I will drop the block out and take it to Ducati.
     
  8. The TPS must be checked before you balance the vacuume, this can be done with a multi meter on the wires at the TPS if you know the closed value.
    If it need adjustment then the TPS valve must be disconnected from the rear to avoid interference, you only need to set the closed value! Don’t try and set values for any open positions.
    Ducati stipulate this!.
    Then once that’s done you can then balance with vacuum gauges and set the idle speed!
    TPS set is tricky!
    Balancing is done through the butterfly valves, air flow (mixture) and idle speed. Adjustment of any of these will affect the vacuum reading it’s just a case of keep going until you get good idle speed/bike running well and correct vacuum values!.

    then you can set the co trim
     
  9. On this bike a TPS reset is a simple press of a button in the diagnostic software.
     
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  10. After swapping out the air box a few weeks ago I reset the TPS, no changes where made in the diag software since then.
     
  11. Ok! Again....I asked a 749 owner friend of mine in the USA, he says later models of 749/999 have an auto TPS set in the software between the ecu and the TPS sensor! They do still need to be serviced and reset for it to work properly! But....it is an auto system for the most part.

    those gauges might be ok! But you do need to seal the pipes at every connector point. (Best eg I can give is) how would you feel if your fuel lines were not clamped???
     
  12. My mate also added that the TPS auto reset only works if the base setting is correct! Ducati service has TPS reset eventually for all models
     
  13. Don't get too carried away with where the gauge needles sit. All you need are steady needles.
     
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  14. 749/999 is a diagnostic SW reset. Period. It's a fixed TPS with no adjustemnt.
    Any adjustment to the throttle stop or balance bar will bugger the factory presets. Idle speed and balance are adjusted with the air bypass screws and along with the ECU fuel trim, the idle mixture.
    there is no "auto reset" on any of the 749/999. It's always been a SW reset with diagnostics.
     
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  15. tps reset given to me by a friend of mine. The TPS reset was developed by ducati tech’s.
    749 / 999 TPS setting procedure

    1. Disassemble bike to allow access to air box lid and inside air box – i.e., tank, side and front fairing panels and LH air conveyer and air filter.
    2. Put plenty of free play into throttle cable
    3. Make sure the fast idle lever on the rear throttle body LH side is seated against its stop. Add free play to cable if not seated.
    4. Wind the balance screw on the throttle linkage rod at the front throttle body 1 turn clockwise to open front butterfly more than the rear.
    5. Drill an 8mm hole in top of air box using the first “1” of the moulded-in part number 24610731A as the reference point. The hole is to be 45mm to the left of the “1” and 5mm back from the base of the numbers.
    6. Through the hole the throttle base idle screw will be visible. Remove all yellow paint so the screw can be wound out. Wind the screw out (2.5mm hex) until the TPS voltage reading stops reducing, plus an additional half turn.
    7. Make sure the rear throttle butterfly is not being held open by the fast idle lever and that the butterfly is snapping shut. Add more throttle cable free play if required. Wind out the base idle screw more if required to ensure TPS voltage has stopped reducing.
    8. Connect Mathesis to diagnostic connector and enter “Diagnostics”.
    9. Go into “Active diagnosis” and then “TPS Reset” and carry out a TPS reset with the throttle fully shut.
    10. Then go back into “Parameter Reading” and check the TPS degree setting. It should be approx 1.3 for 749 or 2.3 for 749R and 999. Whatever it is, wind the idle stop screw in until double this degree value is reached – i.e., 2.6 or 4.6.
    11. Go back into “Active Diagnosis” and carry out another TPS reset.
    12. If you then go back into “Parameter Reading” and check the TPS degree setting, it should be approx 1.3 for 749 or 2.3 for 749R and 999.
    13. Wind the balance screw on the throttle linkage rod at the front throttle body 1 turn counter clockwise to return the front butterfly to its original position.
    14. Reset the throttle and fast idle cable free play as required.
    15. Plug the 8mm hole drilled in the air box cover using an 8mm (5/16) grommet and tape over. Mark air box above vertical air bleed access hole with red paint to indicate procedure carried out.
    16. Refit fuel tank so bike can be started.
    17. Run bike and reset running balance with air bleeds wound all in. Then set idle speed and mixture using air bleeds and idle trimmer as required.
    18. Remove any yellow paint pieces from the air box as required.
    19. Refit air filters, etc and reassemble bike.
     
  16. This is done using a mathisis tool and resets the TPS as the factory would have done it at manufacture.
     
  17. That isn't an official Ducati procedure, It's copied from "Brad the Bike Boys" website. It's very useful for getting the TPS setting back to the factory spec' after the throttle stop has been disturbed or the TPS has been replaced. The TPS replacement again, isn't an "official" option. Ducati only supply the throttle assembly as a complete unit, with TPS and all the presets done. Using one of CCW's TPS or a TPS sourced elsewhere, requires the base setting and Brads procedure works a treat.
     
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  18. Ok cheers Nelly, If that’s the case then the issue is somewhere else, I had a good idle and needles were even and steady.
     
  19. your right! I was given a link to the site! It’s not an official ducati procedure but more adopted by mechanic’s! If you have the time and the right skill set it’s worth doing to absolutely rule out any fault!
    if that’s the case and the bike is fuelling properly then it must be mechanical or the ecu!
    Before you spend a fortune and time dropping the engine just look further into the clutch and if your satisfied with that have the left case off and check out the starter clutch! Easy to do! Cheep! And inexpensive time wise.

    (it can’t hurt to look)
    et us know how you get on
     
  20. Any news bud? It was a terrible weekend (weather wise) a perfect time to break out the spanner’s :upyeah:
     
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