As derick has said you seem to have a bad connection, you should have a resistance of only a couple of ohms between pin 87 and either of the coil feeds Check that the circuit resistance goes open when you switch the kill switch off and gives a repeatable resistance when back to run( this gives a quick check of the switch) and check the fuse (2) and the fuse holder for evidence of overheating and corrosion
Ok, so I’ll have a check of the negative cables from the battery and I’ll check the back of the fuse holder. can anyone explain what significance pin 87 has with this problem? I’ve look at the wiring diagram but as it probably well known by now I’m not that knowledgeable with electrics. Maybe some understanding may help me solve the issue quicker.
That’s the 12 volt supply to your the majority of the fuses when you turn the key on and then supplies the individual circuits This is “switched” with the relay
Should I of done all investigations with the ignition on? As it wasn’t when I metered the connections
Great stuff, thanks again everyone for the help. I’ll get on with those bits an report back. one more thing, on the wiring diagram it shows 3 connections on the battery negative. 1 goes to the reg/rectifier and th other two too ground. I only have two cable terminals that fix to my battery
The battery negative should have one lead that goes to the frame at the LH side of the battery. From there there is another lead that connects to the engine. Somewhere behind the clutch if I remember correctly.
