I've just had the unfortunate feeling of stripping one of the threads when re-mounting my rear brake caliper after its removal for cleaning. This was the first time I have removed the rear caliper in 3 years of ownership and it was all going so well !! I was torqueing using a torque wrench (that I know is working ok) and did not get close to the 'click'. The other bolt feels as if it's starting to fail too, so I've not fully tightened it. Is this a known problem or could it be that it has previously been over-torqued and weakened ? Are there any clever solutions for this please or is it a matter of replacing the mounting plate ? I would also appreciate advice how to remove the plate - specifically how to support the bike as I don't think my rear axle stand can be used when I remove the eccentric hub to remove the caliper mounting plate ? Help & advice gratefully received please.
Hi mate. Can't remember too well what's needed to be removed to pull the plate as it was a while ago I did mine... But for this and future use, see if you have a local fabricator who could make you something like this... Quite handy for removing most of the main parts and shouldn't take more than a couple of hours to make. Ian
Potential solution (never tried, but it may work): longer bolt through plate with nut on the protruding portion? Helicoil/Thread Insert Removing plate: support bike on Abba Stand or similar or axle stands under footrests.
Had the same problem on my Monster 600, bloody threads are made of cheese! As previous posters have said, Helicoil or Unicoil (same process, different manufacturers), works well and lots readily available on FleeBay for about £15 or so.
I bought a Silverline Helicoil kit off Ebay (not for rear brake caliper though), it worked really well. Silverline Thread Repair Kit Helicoil Type Threading M8 x 1.25mm | eBay
Looks like this is not unheard of then? I had the same issue on my 999. I had the use of a milling machine if it's the same plate they pop up on eBay ....maybe an easier fix?
A helicoil should create a stronger thread than the original in aluminium. Less risk of stripping the thread in future.
I use a couple of axle stands under the footrests; As for tightening the caliper mount brackets, I always shy off the quoted torque as it seems too much for a thin alloy bracket IMO.
Factory quoted torque is 25Nm with lubed threads, does not seem too high. One to note in the book for the future.
Didn't remember the number but I recall when fitting the caliper that it seemed to me that even before reaching the setting it was already enough so I stopped. It's not like it's going to fall off, plus I don't really use it anyway...
You don't need to remove the hub, or buy fancy stands. If you use the convention paddock stand that goes of the chain side, remove wheel, caliper, then the large circlip to allow removal of the caliper hanger. Simple.
Sorry but I don't think that works for the 998 as the disc and mount is on the outside (RHS) of that large circlip. Please let me know if I'm misunderstanding something though. Thanks.
Thank you all for your comments - they are helpful. Interesting to see that I am not alone. It makes me very wary of torquing up other bolts into threads that could be made of cheese !
I would suggest that if torqueing up a bolt to a correct value on a safety critical part like brakes and the thread breaks before reaching the correct value. That your torque wrench may have just saved your life. You have just found that a thread may have been previosly overtightened by a previous owner/garage/dealer. I have a mate that never torques up bolts and he worked on his brakes some years ago, ignored the obvious and ended up in hospital with a broken neck. There is a reason factories mark all torqued bolts.
I have here in my hand a 749,999 brake plate in good condition. If anyone wants it foc i will happily post it to them when I am next in the uk (july). Rather than them use a damaged one. 1st to pm me gets it. No use to me with my 996.
