I used to use a transistor radio to hear when the points opened. So much easier to look at the marks and listen for the click rather than try to look at two things at once.
My father had one in the 50’s as a commuter (basically what they were made for), he’s still got his original handbook, he was always commenting about it so I got it for him to mess around with in his twilight years , I got it cheap but it needed a rebore and new crank seals, unbelievable how easy it was to change the seals, whole job took less than an hour, but it’s from a time when bikes were designed to be worked on by the owner, I’ve taken it out a few times and it’s a laugh to ride, sort of gallops along due to no or rudimentary damping in the suspension, he loves riding around and tinkering with it, out on the road it’s quite an exiting ride, not because of the power but because the front brake is pathetic
i think I want an old two stroke. theres been a few times of late where i'v been thinking, I really want to rag the shit right out of this but find myself pussying out at the speed of it.
Took the Hustler out for gentle bimble, i still have an engine lubing problem on the left hand side.Each cylinder has a single clear plastic feed pipe which splits into two feeds one for the main bearing and the other into the crankcase for the fuel mix. I have a complete line of oil up to splitter and then air appears in the two pipes on the left cylinder side, with the bike ticking over and the oil pump hand held fully open a full line of oil appears in both pipes but not for long.There are four little spring and ball check valves connecting to the crank case i have removed these and thoroughly cleaned them but the problem still exists. No splits , no air leaks either the valves are not controlling the crankcase pressure or the pump is failing would you agree ? Any help would be appreciated.
is there vacuum acting on the pipe from the cylinder side of the splitter? if so you would think that there would be an air leak at the splitter if its ok up to there. new pipes used? gone hard? any chance the splitter contains a one way valve?
Could well be, they are nylon moulded pipes, it would indicate something like that closer inspection required using a red 2t oil which can be seen when present in the pipes, right hand side is fine. Check valves in the brass banjo ends spring/ ball. BTW this set is priced £84.99 on e-bay
Sorry can’t help with that one, the only issue with mine was a banjo was loose and leaked but that just needed nipping up, you could just change to premix if you can’t get the autolube working soon, the worry is that it won’t take long for damage to occur if it’s starved of oil, there are a few classic 2 stroke forums around its worth asking on there.
Thanks Mark, i had to replace the banjo fitting on the pump end of the offending pipes like a cast alloy disintegrated or broke on the threaded end which screws into the nylon end it did appear to have glue substance on it. I have browsed a few forums one thing i need to check is the oil tank fitting that supplies the oil to the pump apparently there is a filter in there, it may be gunged up and resticting the ammount of oilflow. Failing that i will try and get replacement springs and balls for the check valves plus new washers for the banjos. Back in the 70's when i worked in a garage, i can vaguely remember a british car Leyland something is telling me, its hydraulic clutch/brake pipe made of nylon used to loose its clutch/ brake pedal pressure by drawing air but not leaking fluid can't remember exactly.
Suzuki CCI = Crank & Cylinder Injection. How would premix get to the crank if the 2 stroke oil was being fed via the carb? I am not personally knowlegable or claiming any expertise, but the Suzuki forum I frequent for my TS185 info (no Brexit discussion there) are very strong on never running the bike on premix. Of course they could be wrong as its the tinterweb. If I were you, I would call Martin at Crookes Suzuki in Barrow for advice. He will know, he is a great bloke and an excellent source for parts too. Tell him I said hi!
I too am not in favour of running pre-mix fuel, apparently there is a mod involving drilling oilways inside the crankcases for main bearing lubrication. No the manufactures spent millions designing these engines age and poor maintenance creates these problems which have to be rectified, part of the fun. thanks Jez
Good point Jez, I was thinking of a friends Kawasaki where he’d been advised by a specialist to use premix but obviously a different design.
Yeah the designs vary a fair bit I think, and some two smokes are fine with pre mix. I guess they all are until they go bang!
From memory these are sensitive to oil viscosity .. the CCI oil was always more expensive and I think thicker? Check valves should be easy to check by blowing through ? It sounds like your left side needs bleeding - Squirt oil directly into the crankcase hole , then into the line at the pump end until the line is full .. then do the same procedure mentioned above with pump held fully open but at higher then tick over .. about 2500rpm and see if that clears it
Cheers Matt, you might have something there about the oil viscosity i have used Fuchs general 2t oil. As for your bleeding i have done that ( post 29) and it does clear but then soon re-appears.
