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Taking Off Lhs Engine Casing

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Pavey, Aug 20, 2017.

  1. 2010 1198.

    I'm investigating the clunking noise from within, which seemed to be from around the front cylinder area. Right had side was easy and all looks ok there with the belts (to my untrained eye).

    I've Googled how to take the left hand side casing off but the guides mention parts which presumes i know what i am looking at.

    Fairing is off, belly pan is off. Engine oil tray is below the bike.

    1. Is the next step the 5mm allen key plug (next to the square plate with 4 bolts through it) to drain the oil out?

    2. Do i need to remove the water pump?

    3. Do i need to remove the clutch slave?

    4. Do i need to remove the battery?

    Those are my first set of questions from this mornings observations, sure there will be plenty more once i progress.

    Thanks!
     
  2. IMG_2265.PNG Hi pal. Best to use the puller tool. Only a few quid or make your own. Best to take the water pump cover off too as it makes lining the water pump shaft up easier.
     
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  3. Clean the case where the chain runs near the clutch push rod as there is a 6mm socket head there whose rebate becomes clogged with chain grease and becomes invisible. The case cracks if you try and get it off with the puller without removing this screw, do not ask me how I know.
     
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  4. And get some 3 bond gasket sealer
     
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  5. Drain oil and water.Remove gear selector arm too.
     
  6. Thanks all. Thanks Ian for the puller link, have ordered that so will have to wait for it before I progress any further.
     
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  7. I have just taken one off since posting earlier.

    I used the head of a dead blow mallet between the frame and the water outlet pipe on the case, to the left as you look at it. using the handle as a lever, it just popped off. cover.jpg cover2.jpg
     
    #7 ducati dad, Aug 20, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2017
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  8. Nice chain.
     
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  9. This sprag change video pretty much explains it.

     
  10. On a side note, be wary of putting the right length screw back into the cover/engine. Too short and you will strip the threads in the case.
     
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  11. Nichol flywheel??
     
  12. or get the gasket off exige
     
  13. The 'exact' gasket worked great for me too.

    If you have the flywheel off, you can shock the nut loose with an impact gun. Tightening ( torqueing) back up u should really use a flywheel locking tool.
    I purchased the 'Laser' brand of tool and found it wouldn't fit properly ( not offset enough) and ended up borrowing a genuine tool.
    Just to save you a faff!......

    IMG_0714.JPG
     
    #13 Itsamonster, Aug 21, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2017
  14. Do they do a cover gasket for the 1098? Might be different for the evo motor but I did look for my 998 and couldn't find one. Looks like it had 3 bond on it before? Thought they came like that from factory.
     
  15. Ask him @Exige

    they do come with 3 bond on but it can get really messy and be a pain in the ass so i opted for the gasket when i did my 749
     
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  16. I prefer 3 bond, less likely to leak IMO, plus a tube goes a long way.

    Also (not sure if the same on 1198?) fitting a gasket will move the case outwards slightly and could upset sensor gaps?
     
  17. True, could need a different thickness sensor ( brass?) metal shim.
     
  18. No, just turned down on a lathe
     
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  19. Downsides??
     
  20. Yes they fit and no they don't :)
     
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