1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Taking Off Lhs Engine Casing

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Pavey, Aug 20, 2017.

  1. No, not that i'm aware of. Bike didn't get hot or anything, just had trouble starting and then made a metallic noise as i was going along, which i presume was the bit that fell rattling around the internal of the engine.

    Do i strip it down myself (never done it before) or get a mechanic to do it - any idea how many hours labour?
     
  2. IMG_2512.JPG
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  3. @nelly could prob advise I guess.
     

  4. What a superb video Robarano, thanks for posting.

    Question for you though. Is the guy one handed, or was he holding the camera with his right hand?
     
  5. Just a thought after perusing the photos a bit more, is the black bit in this image supposed to be there, looks like it is making contact with the teeth which would lock it up and might explain the part snapping off?

    https://ibb.co/mgUYGv
     
  6. The black bit is the timing sensor and should be around 0.7mm clear of the teeth, almost touching.
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  7. Nope. Thats the crank position sensor. And needs to be within about 1mm from that gear. You may find there's a notch in the side of the gear too.
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  8. I'll go check at lunch and see if the timing sensor is indeed clear by the 1mm, and also if the water pump is still turning or seized (thanks for the info NM).
     
    • Like Like x 1
  9. You've had 0 fricking luck with that bike. :(
     
  10. Absolutely none. For the while it has worked though it has brought an immense smile to my face, to the point i get off it and am shaking with adrenaline, hence why i keep throwing money at it (that isn't really surplus).

    It does feel though on every ride like it isn't going to start again when i pull over or stop for fuel etc. @Northan Monkey has been very helpful so far and there might be a solution, but it will take the bike out of action for a while and cost more money.
     
  11. It's on almost 30k miles now, could more happen to it further down the line and i'd be wise to get shot now?
     
  12. That shaft drives both the water pump (in the left-hand casing) and the cambelts on the right hand side. It's the water pump drive part that's broken off, is it the whole tab that's broken or just part because it doesn't look that broken to my eyes? could be the angle of the picture (or my eyes) though but I'm just wondering if there's enough of it left to still drive the pump?

    As said above, you need to split the engine cases to replace the shaft.
     
  13. It's a shame the corresponding part on the water pump couldn't have been designed to fail instead of the shaft, if the water pump seizes.
    It would have saved an awful lot of grief...
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  14. Do the sprag, flange and starter gear whilst you are at it Pavey. £362 parts from Snells, plus some 3bond, the holder tool and a case puller.
     
  15. Thanks all.

    @bootsam I did that lot on my last 'adventure' with this bike, when it went up to Ducati John. Also had new front discs and the repair work that was required at the time.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  16. Is it worth a phone call to DJ?
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  17. hi @bootsam #
    thank you i am on here
    mike
     
Do Not Sell My Personal Information