The strip has begun, only problem I have found is the brake leaver looks to be hitting the swing arm.
That's because it is bent or the pivot is. You can see the master cylinder rod is skewed too. Or perhaps the rose joint is not an OEM pattern and is a bit too big.....it seems newer than the rod and cylinder. If it is the lever which is bent, it can be straightened if done carefully. An easier way might just be to use a half nut and Loctite instead of the nyloc nut; but that won't put the rod into the correct line.
Little update. Bikes basically striped down. I’ve now come to the conclusions that the bike has definitely been stolen at some point as the ignition barrel was held on by normal bolts. Front forks are stamped 750ss but they will do for now. Next thing will be to get the wheels stripped down so I can get them blasted ready for powder coat. Luckily I can get the powder coating done where my wife works, but they only blast steel hence the need to get the wheels blasted. Engine is scabby but all looks good and I can see the head studs have been replaced. Any one recommend some good engine enamel, black and silver?
Little up date, powder coating on hold due to our friend Covid -19. And in other news both mixture screws are seized in the carbs, still can’t understand why I was surprised when I looked at them today. Now soaking in some WD40, not that it will make a difference but I live in hope. Going to look at making an engine stand over the next week so I can get it cleaned up and a fresh coat of enamel on. Few other bits to paint so enough to keep me going. Stay safe every one
As regards engine paint, the VHT range of paints are pretty good. I have had success with BBQ paint before too
Oh the fun I had getting a mixture screw out just recently, tried WD & similar lubricants, no effect, heated the carb body with a mini blow torch, no effect, after 2 days of trying, and being very careful and patient I had to resort to cutting the alloy tower away to expose the brass head of the mixture screw, then I gripped the screw with some wire locking pliers (long handles apply very high pressure at the jaws) all the time reapplying heat & lube, eventually it began to move, bit by bit it “squeaked” all the way out proving that no lube was getting to the threads, I was amazed to see virtually no corrosion on the threads, as you can see in the photo the threads looked great!, same in the carb body, how the heck do these things seize so tight!, also as you can see from what’s left of the screw I came very close to losing this battle!
Thanks Mark, I’ve done that before with my old 750, one tunnel was cut on that bike. We are going to try ultrasonic first to see if they will free up. Engine stand is made, photo attached. Made it so I can flat pack when not in use for easy storage. I’m thinking of adding some castors so I can push it around.
So still plodding along with the little bits I can do. Managed to get one of the mixture screws out today, see photos. After 3 hours in an ultrasonic bath in a citric acid solution still no joy. Decided to try to drill in and use a star/ torque bit bit knocked in to remove. Started with a 2mm hole and T8 but no joy. 3mm with T10 and that rang out so 5mm with a T12 I think, he’d drilled in so far that’s only the tread came out. The tip then tapped out. Can any one suggest somewhere I can source replacements please when things are back to normal? Will have a go at the second one tomorrow, keep your fingers crossed .
Thanks all, the carb rebuild kit on NRP’s site looks good and that’s what I’ll do. Still chipping away at bits I can do, striped rear shock today, might get the spring re powder coated this week if there doing yellow where the wife works
So update, frame and wheels done and engine cases off for painting found a little, any know where the best place is to get a new spring please?
