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Timing Belts

Discussion in 'Supersport (1974-2007)' started by sirduke, May 2, 2014.

  1. Thanks but I dont think that'll help. From what I can see its either remove the fixed rollers (currently proving impossible) or ideally remove the flanges, but I dont want to break the flanges doing it if I can possibly help it.
     
  2. Pete, I know this may sound a little agricultural but have you tried lubricating the edge of the pulley with a little vegetable oil or similar and pushing the belts over that way? works for me , Iv'e never had to take pulley flanges off either, it also helps if the belts are warm and pliable gentle heating with a hairdryer or equivalent works. Don't go too mad on the heat.

    Just a thought..
     
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  3. The flanges can be “peeled” off with grips and brute force. Sounds rough, and it is, but they usually come away fairly cleanly. Dress the rough edges of the pulley with a fine file and they’ll be fine.
    It is possible to fit the belts with them in place, and I always do if they are still in place. If you put the belt outside of the tensioner it frees up a little more slack, then flick the belt under it once fitted so the run is correct and can be tensioned. You can remove the tensioner if it suits, then refit. I’ve never had to remove the fixed one. It’d make timing more difficult to.
    The main thing at the moment is the temperature. Warm the belts with a hair dryer. It’ll make them more pliable.
     
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  4. If you have square teeth then its 600 or 750ss - 900's all have round teeth
     
  5. Have recently bought new belts and see that they are now being quoted singly whereas all previous purchases they were priced per pair. Prices have also risen substantially.
     
  6. Thanks for all the suggestions regarding fitting the belts and those annoying 'flanges'. I'll try warming up the belts first and see how I go. I'd lik eto remove the static rollers which I think would definitely help but that's proving difficult (why on earth did they use a 10mm flat and not a regular bolt, makes no sense at all to me!)
    By the way, I'm using a pair of new belts from 'ExactStart', (CACycleworks), round toothed and priced at £75 inc VAT & delivery.
     
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  7. Does this help any
     
  8. They’ve always been costed on the dealer system as singles. If you’ve been getting them as pairs for single price, someone’s been losing money, or at least their parts dept. has ;)
     
  9. On the warming up of the belts, would soaking them for a short while in a bowl of hot/warm water help?? this would give it a uniform heat rather than peaks over the belt through a hairdryer or like??
     
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  10. That’s not quite what I was getting at. They are packed as a pair and up till the recent purchase I have always been quoted one price for the pair. Furthermore the price for the recent purchase is quite a bit more (£89) than previously (£60ish?) but that was 3 years ago as I don’t do a lot of miles in the year.
     
    #50 Billywiztheelder, Apr 5, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2020
  11. The Chris Kelly video was interesting in that he uses the 5mm Allen key for both belts whereas I have always used 5mm for the horizontal and 6mm for the vertical on the basis that it gets hotter and therefore grows more.

    If Derek reads this he will be able to tell us what frequency they vibrate at when plucked.
     
  12. You shouldn't need to remove the flange on the pulleys to fit the belts. I agree that the adjustable tensioner has to be removed, possibly the idler, which would be a lot easier that damaging the flange to remove.
     
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  13. Ducati removed the flange on later models - clearly due to this issue at service :thinkingface:
     
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  14. Thanks again, and after a second failed attempt I agree that removing the idler roller, the static one, would probably make fitting the belts much easier, even with the flanges left on place, but Christ trying to shift that roller is a nightmare, why on earth did they use 10mm flats rather than regular headed bolt? Crazy
     
  15. If I heat up the idler roller to 'help' removal, would I be wrecking the roller bearing itself? (meaning another overpriced spare part no doubt)
     
  16. The fixed idler is fitted with a fairly strong Loctite and is very difficult to remove. If the bearing is fine leave it alone rather than damage it or the thread in the barrell, and for an easier life remove the flanges on the cam pulleys. I've done loads using a pair of slip-lock pliers to grip the flange. Just give them a twist and they are off. And as Nelly says watch out for any sharp edges left at the spot weld.
    I haven't got a frequency figure for the early 2V engines. For the DS and later they were originally given as 145Hz but this was subsequently revised to 110Hz, same as all the 4V engines.
    110Hz is probably fine for the early engines too but you won't go wrong with the 5mm Allen key.
     
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  17. Many thanks!
    One last thing, you said the flanges are spot welded, but I was told they might be only push fit - could it be either? (1994 900ss)
     
  18. Now that you mention it. Most seem to have just been a push on interference fit but a few most definitely had spot welds and took a bit more effort to twist off.
     
  19. I guess if mine are push fit maybe there's a chance to reinstall afterwards if Im careful with the pliers, we'll see, it's the first thing to go for I suppose rather than that overtight idler roller. Its annoying because Im convinced its the idler roller thats stopping the new belts going over the flanges easily - I need only a bit more slack.
     
  20. Exact Fit belts: Chris Kelly's recommendation is set to 99Hz Nominal :upyeah:
    Allen Key Method is Fine too of course...
     
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