Yeah, I measured from the top of the tube, pumping to try and prevent an air lock, but it is possible I still have one, or that the seals are shot. I haven’t had chance to have another look, a job for the weekend I think, when I have an extra pair of hands and a bit more patience.
They are the same as the ones on my bike yes. Fully adjustable and great forks (if they’d only work properly )
I always measure out the amount of oil required for each fork rather than relying on the air gap - that way I know exactly the same amount is in each. But I always make sure they are drained completely first. If you were near enough to me you could use my home made one handed tool for compressing when dismantling.
Yeah, have to have them properly dried out if you’re going on volume. That tool is amazing. Wish I had one... I have to keep bothering my father to come and stick the restraint in while I compress the spring.
Wind all adjusters out , noting the number of turns/clicks ... if different on each fork then set compression and rebound to standard settings , and set preload a couple of turns If both forks feel similar in action , refit and set sag correctly and tune compression and rebound on the road If one is still a springy spring .. there’s an issue that was either present beforehand or introduced by you .. I assume you measured the oil put into each fork ? If not maybe you didn’t pump all the oil round in one fork before setting the air gap ?
It's only an old Victorian cart wheel nut spanner - you must have got one of them laying around (I have one - because I live in an old forge). A similar one could be made using a good quality immersion heater spanner (not the flat bit of metal type).
If it runs shim valves and flow blocks like this then check the shins aren’t stuck open or better still bent. Shims are the little washer type things (flexible)
They have similar things, but the OP would have to take apart what Ducati call a non-serviceable part, though - and that involves a drill and a hacksaw plus more. That's why I took mine to a specialist to rebuild the valves. I still have some of the buggered parts somewhere - includes a ring circlip, a nylon bush, piston seal and shims etc.
I know the bit you mean. Drill Out the preened case heat up with burner and cut. I only speak from experience of motocross forks like Showa, kyb and wp so the road ones might be a bit different.
You usually need some special tools to compress the spring, hold the cartridge and hold the damper rod but I don't think you should need a drill and a hacksaw to get the valves and shims out of Showa road forks. TB
The Kawasaki kyb motocross fork you need to drill the peening and heat to release the loctite . Plus cut Down the tube for better valve control but then mx forks get seriously abused. I’ve not had much to do with road forks . That was the cartridge type also whereas most older bikes were open chamber I beleive
Well either you went to the David Niven School Of Magic or you haven't dealt with a proper strip down and re-valve of Ducati Showa forks.
There's another point we don't see eye to eye on. You measure the oil you put in which only works if the forks are completely stripped and re assembled bone dry, and even then I wouldn't use that method. Most experts strongly recommend measuring the air gap after bleeding the cartridges to ensure absolute parity in each fork leg and to ensure sufficient air gap. I'm happy for you to service your forks your way and I'll service my forks my way. TB
