Unless it has somehow welded itself in there, cant see why it wont come out. Can only describe what I have done, and I have had a rear shock in/out of an 848 at least a dozen times.
@chrisw Looks o.k but check the length. They say in the ad that it's 100mm long, I think that might well be the overall length inclusive of the socket. If that is the case it won't be long enough!
You've got more than one bike. Pay the £5 and get the correct tool. Don't forget to use the correct torque to tighten it back up. It's a race bike, not an Ford Escort!
@chrisw I managed to phone the guy selling the tool. It is as I thought, 100mm long overall. I would think that the socket is about 25mm long , which means the shaft will be 75mm long so it won't work.
Any normal length Allen key will do. Just chop the short L off and into the socket. Just did this last week. If you find it's over torqued, just tap the socket with a hammer. That should measure about 140 / 150 ish. Chris, just let me know when you're going to do yours.
Ah, sorry, forgot about that bit... If you want, I'll send you mine down. I can whip one up no problem for next time I need one. No need to return it. Ian
If I could find the right tool online I would buy it. I've spent a couple of hours looking without success . I will give the cut down Allan key a try tmw. Bette's have you undone your lower shock mount with the Allan key in your photo?
I have this set and it has proved to be a great buy,well i actually won it,the 8mm hex is long and strong enough as i used it loads of times to remove rear shock from my 848. Stanley UK - 43 piece FatMax® Ratcheting Power Key Set
IF the 1098 is the same I did exactly what @bettes did. It was bloody tight but after a few false starts it came out. Maybe the Allen keys I use are shite but on occasion I've over torqued mine and the shaft tends to twist before they snap. If your going carefully you'll feel it. I also replaced that pin with Ti as I remember as I was scared if I needed to do again the Ducati "heads of cheese fasteners" wouldn't take the pounding a second time. Aircon will probably blast me for this but I applied C-102 (a moly compound) when I put it back, and it hasn't moved since. I'm a cowboy though very few times can I be arsed getting the torque wrench out and when I do I'm always thinking this is way too fekin much torque I'm applying. The only thing that's fallen off so far are the heat shield bolts, 7 years and counting
The twisting of the Allan key was what I was concerned about Old Jock & Tobytyke. I could see that over the 100mm length there was a danger of doing that. The quality of the fasteners is diabloodybolical, and Ducati should hang there heads in shame ffs! I would dearly love to have a word with the Accountant who specified them. Couldn't find proper tool to buy online, I live in the sticks miles from the nearest tool supplier and need to get this shock removed and changed over soon as I have booked in for suspension setup soon. Bettes is very kindly going to send me his modified Allan key which is of proven providence. I intend to grease the cap head bolt threads upon reassembly, to ensure ease of future removal.
Have you not tried a normal allen key with spanner/socket on the end? Maybe its the last few years of being around race paddocks, either watching mates or fixing stuff myself on the hoof, but I rarely saw a torque wrench anywhere regardless of what work was going on, maybe except wheels. Rest are right tool Equals right torque unless you have popeye hand and wrist strength, eg never use a socket but to fully tighten an allen key and if you do make sure its no longer than the shaft would be, same principle with spanners. Told to me 20 yrs ago and still seems to apply 90% of the time
