V4 Wheel Nut Torque Values

Search on the forum for the entertaining stories re rear wheel removal.

Apply 100cm breaker bar. Fit 100cm scaffold tube over the end, get your family to swing from the tube etc etc. Factory set rear wheel but is somewhat of a challenge the first time.....

 

My understanding is that the values are the same as the 1098/1198/1199/1298. Front wheel spindle is 63, caliper bolts are 45, fork pinch bolts are 18 and the rear wheel nut is 230. If it were me I'd not torque the pinch bolts more than 10. Andy

 

Rear wheel torque setting is - feckingtight nm.

 

I don't know what thread or how big your nuts are (!) but 748/916 workshop manual has 157 Nm. I think that's way tighter than necessary, especially as the spring retainer is going to stop it loosening. Mr Baines always complained when I torqued it up to the book value, and now I've just broken my brake cylinder bracket trying to stop the wheel turning whilst attempting to undo it from the book setting, I'm inclined to agree. Tight enough at 80Nm, why should it need more?

 

Bad advice.

The 848 and 848 evo, 916, 748, 966, 998, Hypermotard, Multistrada 1000DS, all have the same wheel side 25.9 mm internal diameter rear axle size. All use a 46 mm nut. All have a 176 N·m torque specified. Important: Grease applied to the axle threads and underside of the nut.

Later models* have a 43 mm axle internal diameter with a 55 mm nut on the rear axle. The torque spec is 230 N·m for this nut.

*Diavel, Monster 1200, Multistrada 1200, SBK 1098, SBK 1198, SBK 1199 Panigale, SBK 1299 Panigale, Streetfighter 1098, 2017 Supersport

The torque spec for the Panigale rear wheel nut is 230 N·m ±5% with grease applied (important) to the threads and the underside of the nut. The manual calls for Shell Retinax HDX2, an automotive grease. The proper method is to torque to the lower value (218 N·m) and check for alignment of the hole in the nut with one of the holes in the stub axle. Then tighten the nut to get alignment.

If you incorrectly tighten to some unknown torque value, and then loosen to achieve alignment, you risk achieving a final torque that is insufficient to prevent wheel back-and-forth rotational movement of the wheel about its axle. This movement under acceleration and braking can damage the wheel locating pins/holes and axle.

The purpose of this high torque value is to prevent this wheel rotation and damage.

 

The 748 and 916 have a small diameter rear hub, the V4 has a large diameter rear hub. Andy

 

1199 180Nm for Rear is fine.

 

@Shazaam! how you doing Larry. Been a long time

 

Why would you not tighten a safety critical part up to specified torque? You can’t rely on the safety clips, they are there to help, but if the nut comes loose, the clip won’t last long.
Shazaam’s info is spot on. Tighten them to spec every time.
The older 46mm/41mm nuts loosen up relatively easily, even the later 55mm come loose. This is especially frequent on the LHS nuts.

 

Better get me a ~230nm torque wrench for my 55mm socket after reading this. I've always torqued up the front wheel related bolts like axle clamps, brake calipers etc but just given it a 'that'll do it' for the back wheel.

 

So I’ve just had to put a new retaining clip on the left side of my 916 rear wheel as it was missing since purchasing the bike. Anyway the left nut was only hand tight like most of the other bloody bolts, anyway that’s another story for another day. I’ve a 94/95 workshop manual and it’s saying these figures in the pic. So which is the correct torque or is the manual wrong? I’m stumped and don’t want to over do things..

 

The torque value for the RH rear wheel nut specified in the early 916 workshop manual was revised by Ducati using Tech Bulletins issued to dealers after reports of the nut loosening and possibly being the contributing cause of internal cracks developing on the rear wheel spindle (2000 US Safety Recall).

It's always a good idea to mark the nut position on the wheel with a marking pen so that you can later see if it has moved.

 

I’m a maintenance fitter by trade so I (believe anyway) have a ‘feel’ for tightness.
My wheels are in and out regularly as with any track day rider. The only torque settings I adhere to are the rear wheel (230) and calliper bolts (43).

 

Thanks guys. I like and will be doing the marker pen tip so thanks for that. But can yous confirm the sprocket nut figure is correct or has that been revised?