Which Oil Filter Is Best For The Ss?

In my opinion - K&N.

Because of the instruction of how to tighten it = easier to fit; easier to remove. Can be lockwired sensibly (drill a small hole in one of the cylinder head fins).

Also, I think they do the filtering job better.

I have generally always used K&N and never had an issue with them.

Ducati OEM are almost certainly the same as some much cheaper ones (half Ducati price, even).

AL

 

Ive an idea HiFlo and K&N are made by the same manufacturer.
I got a Champion with my Halfords card. About 4quid.

 

'Alive' rather than 'well', I reckon.

If you make sure the oil filter seat on the engine is perfectly clean and follow the K&N fitting instructions, in particular how much to tighten it; I can't see that you would have any issues.

Some people have said they have had the filter nut shear off or crack a spot weld - IMO this would only happen if it was over-tightened.

I have a chrome K&N on the Harley, lock-wired to an engine bolt. All seems OK.

By the way - lock-wired to a sump fin, not the cylinder head. Below.

 

I use Mann filters, again much cheaper and you can get longer ones that are easier to remove. You can lock wire any filter by attaching a worm drive jubilee clip and lockwiring to that.

 

I use Hiflo on my Hyper & Africa Twin & my CRF ....

 

Don't jubilee clips look lovely compared with decently done lock-wiring?

 

Come on guys always buy OEM ...that means Ducati can pay lots of ridiculous amounts of money to their Motogp riders

 

Who cares what it looks like when it's doing the same job and behind the fairing? My lockwiring is decent, it's just attached a different way

 

I used genuine Ducati filters for years, religiously, till I had a spate of them weeping oil on three different bikes.

Tried HiFlo ones as Louigi Moto was using them on their race bikesbikes, installing them in the same manner the problem disappeared. Shortly afterwards there were several posts on here with guys having the same issue. I have an unconfirmed suspicion that Ducati either changed supplier or the spec, as it was about the same time that they were undergoing a lot of rationalisation of common parts.

I did also find that there is one torque value written on the filter (11nm I think) and a higher one in the manual, which IIRC is about 17nm. Both are way higher than I would have normally have tightened them (always used to do them hand tight as I had on cars for years with no probs), however, since the leaks I now use the factory setting and no probs for last three changes on two different bikes.

Just bear in mind that like all manufacturers, Ducati assemble bikes, they don't make oil filters . Just buy a well known brand and don't loose any sleep over it IMHO.

 

Indeed, I doubt there's anything between any brand for actual filtration. I have used Ducati, Hiflo and K&N with no problems on any but prefer K&N simply because they're easier to fit and remove.

 

It shows when you have a half fairing though; and IMO for the sake of a few quid, a tidy bit of lock-wiring looks much more professional and care having been taken, than a whacking great jubilee clip which to me smirks of a bodge.

No offence meant, though.

AL

 

None taken, it works well.

 

Hi.
I’m new on a 750 ss ie, 2000.
Could anyone place a picture on how to lock-wiring on this model?
Thx.

Kim

 

Go for quality oem or k & n, many years ago people said a citroen 2cv was compatible with with a pantah, dimensions yes but not pressure, I tried one only for all the fibres to be pumped through the system & clog the gauze filter, thankfully the oil pressure light gave me the warning. Live & learn...

 

IIRC the 750 IE doesn't have a convenient fin near the filter; so what I would do is use a K&N filter (which has the lockwire nut on the bottom) and drill a small hole across the angle of the screen filter nut and lock wire to that. In fact on my carbed SS, drilled the 'sump' plug and the screen filter nut so they were both lockwired together. You could do the same but include the filter as well.

Before you remove the screen filter so you can drill the 'nut', mark the nut face at between 1 and 2 o'clock, that way the wiring will tight in the right direction (if you are only wiring to the filter - if you include the sump plug you will need two holes, the other at say, between 6 and 7 o'clock position.

With the sump plug, you drill at quite an angle from the face of the plug into the allen socket so the hole comes out about 2mm up from the bottom of the socket.

Drill size preferably 1.0mm but you can get away with 2mm. (I use 0.75mm stainless lockwire).

AL