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Why Should I Change Ignition Coils?

Discussion in 'Supersport (1974-2007)' started by Hailwoodreplica, May 20, 2020.

  1. Today i have the original coils on my 900 ss-96, hi comp pistons, soon Fcr-41´s. Is there anything to gaine by replace the coils to for an example Ca cycleworks coils?
    Why i asking may have too do with me just ordering Hi cap starter cables from Exige and see the coils there..... Impulsive? Mee?? Noooo:blush:
  2. IMHO the power that a bike produces is in the fuel, that is where the explosive is. If you throw a match in a cup of fuel, is the bang any less than if you throw 2 matches in?
  3. if your coils work then don't change them.

    If they're starting to break down then go for it. the exact coils are a like for like replacement and are the easiest option.

    If you're running a higher state of tune, then things could need a little help.

    With electrical tuning, you're not looking for obvious horsepower increases as you are with engine tuning, what you're doing is ensuring that there is no performance drop off.

    In the same way that a high compression engine can cause pre-detonation and therefore need a colder plug as a result so too can the upper reaches of engine running cause premature breakdown in the cdi and coils.

    Its the basic law of the candle that burns twice as bright burns half as long.

    In this instance you've got several options :-
    Dyna coils - just forget it, they've had their day.
    Nology profire coils - absolutely amazeballs. I've used both and the nology coils rock.

    Iridium plugs - due to the way the electrode is structured you'll get a much cleaner burn and also a nicer smoother running, for 20 quid it's a decent mod that won't break the bank.

    Your stock CDI and coils run at 3 ohms resistance. the lower the resistance, the quicker your coils take to energise, and if you're after revs and performance without ignition drop off then you're into the territory of looking at ignitech units which allow you to use very low impedence coils, which at higher revs won't tail off due to not being able to energise sufficiently quickly to keep up with the demands of the engine.

    You also want a lovely constant full fat spark, as this will ensure that you get a full burn all the way through the rev range.

    Put it this way, it won't do any harm to have a set of new coil in reserve.

    Very true, but what you're doing is ensuring that if one match goes out as soon as it hits the fuel instead of igniting it, the other one will still ignite the mixture.

    One last thing...
    If you're running FCR's then I would also recommend you get a bag of float needles - FCR's eat them like sweets, but then again, their natural habitat is an environment where they get stripped and rebuilt on a regular basis.

    And please... please, please please have them set up on a rolling road - you've paid for the carbs, now pay for a proper setup and not the settings that 'man on forum' says, because trust me, flatslides are a bitch born on st bitchmas day and will not forgive you for trying to do things on the cheap.

    ... oh and float needles....

    You'll easily tell when it's time as you'll start overfuelling, and at the worst the contents of your tank will just pour out of the gaps in your exhaust link pipes and onto the floor. Don't ask me how I know. :)
    #3 Sev, May 20, 2020
    Last edited: May 20, 2020
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  4. Hi, thank´s for the very good explonation. I´l guess i wait until i need new coils then, gues thats a god thing. And thanks for the tips on setting these carbs up, i bought them this spring, used, so i gues i better start tear them apart. And look what else i need exept for needles.
    Regards //Leif
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