Soon be out of warranty anyway. If the box splits, some have at the bung mounting point, will it invalidate a replacement claim? Doubt it.
Well maybe not, but only because it's such a well known issue and dealers will want to maintain goodwill. You can't avoid the fact that if you tamper with it then they're certainly not legally obliged to replace it. That goes for anything you buy, be it an exhaust or a sandwich, and particularly if you modify something to behave completely differently to how the manufacturer originally intended. They would be completely within their right to tell you to "do one". If my dealer was closer and more convenient to get to and I didn't rely on my bike on a daily basis then I wouldn't have bought a DUC-EE. Instead I'd be in that dealership every time it packed up and demanded a fix or replacement every single time, regardless of how often it happened, as is my right. Had it not been adequately repaired I would have ultimately rejected the bike and demanded a replacement or a refunded, again as is my right. You bet your life that if it suits a dealer to be awkward then that is what they will be. We all know of plenty of occasions where that happens, where one dealer will honour something under warranty when another won't. I have had previous experience of a very similar set of circumstance on a brand new car costing three times as much and I've been down this road. I've done the years of litigation and I've get the tee-shirt and had the legal bills and the re-mortgage to show for it. I know first hand what a total ball-ache some dealers and indeed some manufacturers can be to deal with, and if you don't play the game to the letter of the law then ultimately you open yourself to a shafting somewhere down the line. In this particular instance then some common sense should prevail and when a £40-odd solution is within easy reach then you have to balance out the additional cost to address the situation yourself, vs the cost the "play the game". At least with the extra £40-odd quid you can remove all evidence that you did anything to the bike, whereas taking a black and decker to it you can't. In my own case, my dealer is not local and to take time out to get it replaced costs me more than £40. In fact the time it takes me to remove the exhaust and drill it out would still cost me more than £40, so I'm still buying a DUC-EE even then. When I first contacted my dealer about the issue they said they were more than happy to replace it. I then asked about what happens when the replacement goes wrong and they said they wouldn't fix it because they knew that there was no permanent fix whilst leaving the system intact and would just replace it again ... and again ... and again". It was at this point I decided I just couldn't afford the time to be trotting back and forth to keep getting the exhaust replaced every 4 to 5K miles, and whats the point in that when I'm supposed to be able to acheive 9K mile service intervals? It really doesn't matter how you try and justify it, even with best intentions it's unwise recommend people take a drill to something which could ultimately leave them in a dubious legal position vs spending a very modest amount of money which will likely pay for itself in your saved time by avoiding just one trip back to the dealer.
When the replacement was fitted I mentioned I had bought a DUC-EE and the mechanic said "Brilliant, I'll put it on now"... no more problems PS P&H originally suggested fitting a full Termi system, like I was going to pay for that just to fix the crappy valve!
Joking aside, it would be cheaper for them to do that than to have you reject the entire bike as "not fit for purpose". If the repair and replacement of the original component cannot affect a suitably reliable solution then it's actually the only recourse they have, short of the dealer modifying the exhaust themselves. You would be quite within your rights to insist that if the original valve is present then it must work.
And you wonder why dukes are so expensive, if you were to nip to a dealer every 5 minutes demanding a new centre box. You did the duc thingy, I did the drill, both happy and it's never going to effect me and it will never jam again or throw up a dash light. Happy days.
Not at all, it's all there in the "Consumer Rights Act" 2015. All products must be of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose and as described. So a bike which continually has a major component fail at regular intervals and which impacts the advertised performance does not meet any part of that test and I'm not sure on what basis anyone would think it does. Not of satisfactory quality - since it continually fails. Not fit for purpose - debateable, as without a functioning valve it could well violate EU noise limits, you could also argue performance as being part of that too. Someone more learned than me would no doubt have no trouble making that point. Not as described - since performance is impacted to a point below the advertised figures.
Hi Guys. Im Ducati 848 evo se owner. i think i have same problem. but i see rev lights illuminate when rpm goes around 5000-6000rpm. and thrust suddenly reduce about 2 sec. after that rpm increase.. do you have any experience like that? or is that same problem ?
Same problem if you still have the valve fitted. Normally shows a mil light tho Or could it be traction control related? My evo never did this but my previous 848 would seize up all the time with standard cans
As a last post , i have just discovered during a tyre replacement that their fix was to remove the valve.
As a last post , i have just discovered during a tyre replacement that their fix was to remove the valve. View attachment 123123
https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/hacksaw-to-the-butterfly.50478/ It has come up on the odd occasion But good effort getting it out the way, its the way forward.
To add to this i didnt remove it the dealer dis without telling me, and out of shear coincidence i was at Weston bike night tonight and the general manager of the dealer was there so i mentioned it and he is going to speak to the service dept tomorrow and get them to phone me as to why they bodged rather than fixed it
If I were you, I'd go in and thank him for removing this piece of misery that was going to cause you no end of bother!!
Had the bike out today and experienced the same, no top end power at all, all choked and restricted. Got home, took the termi off and freed up the valve, perfect now. How do you go about removing it??
Take it off & drill or die grind the 2 fixings on the flap & remove it. I believe doing it this way will not bring up any fault codes on dash. I say this as I have the full termi on which gets rid of valve altogether.
I removed mine recently. As others have said I just drilled out the two screws and removed the flap, whilst being careful it didn't disappear down into the collector box. It still cycles with no fault code.
