It takes patience and a methodical approach more than brains and science. From what you say now, I would concentrate on properly bleeding the system, paying attention to the master cylinder. Andy
so managed to find some time today to pls about with the slipper clutch Turns out my fluid was low and that was the reason nothing to do with the slipper clutch. But i have a new issue All buttoned up new fluid in clutch its reacting now. stack height is now 36.5mm Started the bike up great slipper clutch is spinning hold clutch lever in engage 1st gear and even with my clutch lever pulled in the back wheel is spinning FAST i cant even stop the back wheel spinning with my foot. Any idea what this could be? Also a note i have a sneaky suspicion that the dished shaped washer that gets fitted before the clutch hub i think i had installed that the wrong way round need more time to strip and turn that round.....but would that be the cause of this issue im having? Cheers again guys
yes friction in first and a steel plate in last bud. So maybe take a friction and a steel out? Or take my 2mm steel plate out and put in a 1.5mm steel plate?
Yep. Getting playing. On my 999 I ended up using no dished plates to get it right. On my 996 I've got 3 or 4 and its still not quite right. Was perfect before I changed the slave. Apparently there is logic in there somewhere but it seems a black art to me.
You ended up just using friction plates only? could i have 2 friction plates together? I am complete beginner when it comes to clutches like you said black magic haha
Yep. It's an art. A word of warning. Get it so it's slipping slightly then swap a thin plate for a thick one and it may then be ok. Don't go off the stack height. I went out on a test and when it got warm the clutch jammed and I had to stall it to stop. Very dangerous times.
Problem is i only have the original clutch plates from the original clutch and i think they are all the same size don't think i have thick and thin ones?
Friction all the same but you should have different thicknesses of plain plate. The dished plate should be a different thickness for instance. Remember that all the friction plates turn together, as do the plain plates, so having two friction plates together would do no harm as such but it would be a bit weird. IME, you can get away with a lot with conventional clutches but it seems slipper clutches are very sensitive to stack height.
PS. If you think the plate under the slipper is wrong, fix that first. Otherwise you may be constantly chasing your tail.
I dont think i have any dished plates all my plates are flat not curved in anyway? Any idea where i can buy individual plates?
it's unlikely none are, but it's not impossible if it's be played with before. The dished look very similar but have a small . (dot) on them. If you have them on a flat hard surface and push down on an edge the other side will lift slightly if you have them concave up.
So i played about with the clutch yesterday Firstly i found the dish shaped washer i fitted round the wrong way Then i played about with the stack height. For some reason i followed the attached recommended stack and it would not even give me use of the clutch the back wheel wouldn't spin when i engaged it into gear so i added a couple of 2mm plates and removed a couple 1.5mm plates. Again still to loose. The only way i could get the back wheel to spin when in gear and stop spinning when i engaged the clutch was adding a 1.5mm steel plate in to the stack. Now if you look at the drawing it says put a friction plate in first but because i needed to add an extra 1.5mm steel plate to the stack i put that in first before the friction plate. My question is will this be okay? Or would i be better to buy some 2mm steel plates and remove 3x 1.5mm plates within the stack and add 3x 2mm plates which would give me that extra 1.5mm needed and would mean i could remove the 1.5mm steel plate from the beginning of the stack? I hope im.explaining this okay. Cheers
