Living Corrosion Over Metal Engineskeleton

It wants Jizer-ing with a stiff brush in the first instance and then see what condition it’s in when rinsed off.
It has to be Jizer, not cheaper generic cleaners.

 

Vapour blast? I've had mine done, left bare and as the process peens the surface, I've just coated with ACF50 and will monitor for any signs of corrosion. I was advised by blaster this should be OK.

 

Hi DQ, did you have the vapour blasting done on the engine in frame, removed and in one piece or fully stripped down?
I’m looking for the best (safest) way to get all the remaining paint stripped from an engine ripe for the bare metal treatment, but don’t want to strip the engine or risk forcing media in through seals.

 

I know the OP doesn't want to split the crankcases, but for what it is worth, my own preference for engine finish if not properly painted is to polish easy to keep clean outer casings but not lacquer it (just keep it clean), but where the main bulk of engine is hard to get at, I favour sandcast aluminium with no finish.
I learned this from the 80s Guzzi engines.....so easy to look after.
With an engine that isn't sandcast, grit or shot blasting can achieve a similar effect.
However, when I removed battered and rough paint finish from parts of mt 750SS engine (belt covers, say) I noticed they had an effect that resembled sand cast which was very similar to the crankcase finish.
I got the distinct impression that Ducati used paint thickness to save on polishing time.
AL

 

Yep I am running this now as my LH side had to come off to get at broken gear spring. I am using VHT paint and ticking off every mistake i can. First up using primer which unless you get all or the original paint off acts as a (partial) paint stripper.
Second mistake using VHT Enamel paint on cases is probably not needed as the temperature is not that high and the paint may not cure.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1623380237

 

I forgot to mention that Simoniz Tough Paint in Satin Black is pretty damn good......basically a stone chip paint, requires no primer, but gives a good hard smooth finish.

A mate of mine used some on a small four stroke engine casings and crankcase which seemed to withstand heat well (it even says on the can for use on engines as well) so I tried some on some metalwork on the Harley which ran very close to one the exhaust headers near the manifold......no problems with that before I sold the bike.

 

Good, i used it on my Radiators. BTW did he cure it in an oven as recommended?

 

Nothing on the can to say cure it in an oven.....or on the Holts website......it isn't what we know as VHT paint.
https://www.holtsauto.com/simoniz/products/one-coat-tough-paints/

 

Indeed my mistake, its the silver Enamel that asks for it

 

FWIW, I left my cases bare, not being overly impressed with any of the available engine paints.
Before assembly, I burnished the cases with a stainless wire wheel in a Dremel (sounds ballaching but wasn't), which gave a nice 'closed' surface, similar I guess to vapour blasting. The bike sits all winter in the (dry) garage, and by spring gets a very very light dusting of white corrosion, which wipes off instantly. Been done a number of years now, and its still good.

 

Yep, well remembered! - different caliper mounts made so I could fit CBR wheels (poor mans Marchesinis) - still going well

 

Engine removed, stripped and split, so totally bare

 

Just restored my 750SS engine as the poor finish had been annoying me ever since I bought it. Problems with flaking paint and light corrosion.

Degreased engine, then cleaned everything up with wire brush, stainless steel pot-scourer, and sandpaper/wet and dry paper. It took many hours! The side casings and cylinder fins were the worst. I didn't get all the paint off as this is almost impossible to clean the nooks and crannies without blast-cleaning, but you do need a sound base to work on.

I left the engine in-situ, but removed everything around it, including carbs and exhaust, and took off the clutch and alternator casings, plus cam and cambelt covers, cleaning these up on the bench.

Paints used as follows:
Crankcases brush painted with Car Plan Silver Engine Lacquer
Cylinder barrels and heads brush painted with Granville Satin cylinder black.
Side casings and cam covers rattle-can sprayed with Simoniz Steel Acrylic Wheel paint and lacquered with U-Pol Gloss lacquer

EDIT: Please DO NOT use U Pol lacquer over any acrylic paint! When tested, it seemed to cover fine without reacting. But only for a few days. Give it a week or two and it starts crazing over. I had to sand down and re-paint both side casings.

Exhaust and oil cooler painted with rattle can E-Tech Graphite VHT.

Came out pretty well, but I may repaint the cambelt covers in a dark grey as I'm not sure about the silver finish.

 

Forgot to mention, all the allen bolt fasteners were replaced with stainless. Cheap and easy to do.

 

Looks good, think you’re right about the belt covers.

 

Scroll down to the bottom.....mine were water blasted and peened ( i think thats how you spell it...)

https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/honda-400-4-rebuild.75671/page-14