Thanks rob, will do! Bought the girlfriend a present too. A clay block for her fabia vrs. Should keep her quiet for a while
Buddy...DO NOT let her claybar the VRS UNLESS you have done a full chemical decontamination ( iron & tar ) otherwise you will marr the clearcoat to hell....oh and NEVER clay unless you are going to follow up with a machine polish to remove the marring the clay will inflict. ( you could also apply a Glaze by hand to mask the marring but it will only be temporary )
Haha is her skin that rough?...lol......your init for life buddy...Just wanted to catch ya before the damage was done ( & you'd have got the blame!! lol )...
Hi Rob, Which chemical wash would you recommend please? (budget ) I had a quick nosey on youtube but can't find any mention on specific chemical washes before clay barring. Also, can the same procedure be used on plastic motorcycle tanks and fairings? Not sure I should be asking you all the above though as it is your livelihood and understand if you want to keep the trade secrets to yourself ! By the way, what motorcycle are you riding? Huddersfield lad? Phil
While we are all picking @rob lewis brain for advice, what can I use on my Diavel Carbon Red? The carbon is all matte finish, with red gloss paint stripes along the tank and rear seat unit. The wheel's are a gloss black paint, with machined sections showing bare ally. Usual thing, I need something that I can use to remove dead flies and road dirt, polish the red painted sections without polishing the matte carbon, and will give a protective coat to everything, including the wheels. At the moment I'm using Sonax Xtreme Detailer Spray, which is great at removing the bugs and dirt, and leaves a decent finish. But, I know that it's probably not giving the long term protection that I need. Any advice?
Hi Phil,.....go to www.polishedbliss.co.uk ( free delivery on everything within 2-3 days ) .... Buy some Gyeon Tar to remove the tar spots; Gyeon Q²M Tar is d-Limonene-based, and should thus be used neat. For best results, wash and rinse your car as usual and then, working on one panel at a time, spray it on liberally and allow 1-2 minutes for it to work. Then take a microfibre Towel and wipe the panel down gently to remove any stubborn nibs of contamination. Finally, rinse the panel down thoroughly with a strong stream of water before moving on to the next panel. Once the whole car is done, discard the towel (don't try and wash it, because the residual odour will contaminate your washing machine), rinse the whole car down once more and then proceed to the next stage of the decontamination process (the removal of iron-based contaminants using an iron dissolving cleaner). Buy some Bilt Hamber Korrosol to remove the embedded iron; Bilt Hamber korrosol comes pre-diluted to the correct strength for safe exterior use. In all cases, wash and rinse the surfaces you are going to treat in the normal way. Next, working on 3-4 panels at a time, spray Bilt Hamber korrosol on liberally and allow 3-5 minutes for it to work; during this interval the initially transparent solution will gradually turn a deep red as ferrous compounds and sintered iron particles dissolve into solution (this effect can be very pronounced, but don't panic because it's quite normal and to be expected). Although Bilt Hamber korrosol is essentially a touchless cleaner, you can agitate it with a microfibre towel if needs be (we recommend using a PB Disposable Towel). After 5 minutes or so rinse the surfaces you have treated with a strong stream of water. Note that if the solution has begun to dry you may need to use a stronger jet of water from a pressure washer to remove the residue. After rinsing off, check the treated surfaces for residual contamination by running your fingertips over them while they are still wet. Contaminant-free surfaces should feel perfectly smooth (if your fingertips aren't particularly sensitive you can magnify your sense of touch by putting your fingers inside a cellophane wrapper first). If you can detect any grittiness then it's likely that the treated surfaces are still contaminated with non-ferrous particulates (e.g. paint overspray) and will need to be carefully clayed before any polishing is done or any protection is applied. There you go....you can now clay....use plenty of soapy water as clay lube....keep Kneeding the clay as it picks up bits of contaminants....No Pressure on the clay...gently gently does it....if you drop it BIN IT. Above products can be used on Bike no worries just be careful with the Tar around decals...as its a glue remover also. Yep huddersfield lad...Just sold my Mint 2016 Multi DVT S only 5000 miles on her....fully kitted out, ceramic coated etc....want to buy the new 1260S but I don't have time at present to ride not even to take bloody a test ride!!!....but on the up side business is great....Hope you find the above useful Phil.
Hiya....lot of questions....but i'll try to help; To remove bugs etc....go to www.carpro.co.uk; Intensive Bug Remover...( just for removing bugs - its not a detail spray ) To give everything a protective hydrophobic coating; Carpro Hydro02 Lite.... Hydro2 Lite can be used as a quick detailer, or after every time you wash. Fast, easy, economic, and long lasting “self-cleaning” effect. Ease of Use: Spray on and rinse off Versatility: Use on any surface Dirt and Water repellency: Dirt and water are repelled from the surface Instant Vehicle Release: No cure time needed Resistant to nearly all acids, alkaline solutions, and solvents Beauty: Instantly enhances the gloss, depth, and smoothness of your paint
Much of the Bilt Hamber stuff is available from Opie with a forum discount or free shipping if you get it from them via ebay
Hi Rob Quick question - is there anything special about getting adhesive residue off (gloss finished) carbon fibre? There are some DSC stickers (not mine I hasten to add) on the front mudguard of my 1198S which I'd like to remove. Thanks Andrew
Thanks for that - I'll try a bit somewhere that doesn't show first! Update - WD40 did the trick nicely, thanks.
